cracking the DR

[Shaggy]

Now I see. In another thread he indicated that he broke it and thought the repair costs were too high (this was before he took it apart for the pictures).

[kleykenb]

Originally Posted by Shaggy

Now I see. In another thread he indicated that he broke it and thought the repair costs were too high (this was before he took it apart for the pictures).

The USB port broke off while I was reading something and had the device supported on my chest while charging via USB.
Repair cost would have been 300Euro + shipping and even though it's a very expensive device I just didn't want to pay that kind of money for a repair on a device that I find to be inferior in build quality, does not live up to it's promises -bad battery, frequent crashes ....).

[Grimulkan]

Originally Posted by kleykenb

The USB port broke off while I was reading something and had the device supported on my chest while charging via USB.

Do you have pictures of the part that broke off? Maybe its a simple repair (soldering a bunch of broken contacts). iRex may have quoted the price for replacing the entire motherboard.

[Shaggy]

Originally Posted by Grimulkan

Do you have pictures of the part that broke off? Maybe its a simple repair (soldering a bunch of broken contacts). iRex may have quoted the price for replacing the entire motherboard.

They probably did. I think 300 Euro is also the price for a complete screen replacement on the iLiad. Sounds like iRex is quoting a price for either a new MB or a for swapping it out with a whole new device.

[kleykenb]

Originally Posted by Shaggy

They probably did. I think 300 Euro is also the price for a complete screen replacement on the iLiad. Sounds like iRex is quoting a price for either a new MB or a for swapping it out with a whole new device.

Yes, I believe they were planning on replacing the DR1000s. I do not think they repair anything really, and therefor all repairs will cost about 300Euro's - a tad more than the price to produce a DR I'm assuming.
And frankly, in my opinion, even 300Euro is way too much for a device that sucks as much as the DR1000 !
Note that I also have a Cybook Gen 3, ithe build quality , the useablity, the protective cover, the battery, the stability, ... everything really, is better than on a DR... except for the size of its screen. But as they say in Dutch : "Een ezel stoot zich slecht 1 maal aan dezelfde steen", roughly translated : "No more iRex for me".

[Grimulkan]

Originally Posted by kleykenb

Yes, I believe they were planning on replacing the DR1000s. I do not think they repair anything really, and therefor all repairs will cost about 300Euro's - a tad more than the price to produce a DR I'm assuming.
And frankly, in my opinion, even 300Euro is way too much for a device that sucks as much as the DR1000 !
Note that I also have a Cybook Gen 3, ithe build quality , the useablity, the protective cover, the battery, the stability, ... everything really, is better than on a DR... except for the size of its screen. But as they say in Dutch : "Een ezel stoot zich slecht 1 maal aan dezelfde steen", roughly translated : "No more iRex for me".

What I meant was, if you're willing to solder a bunch of contacts, it might be enough to fix the thing. If you post pictures of the damage, someone might be able to assist you. At the least, you might be able to sell it to someone who is willing to repair it.

[kleykenb]

Originally Posted by Grimulkan

What I meant was, if you're willing to solder a bunch of contacts, it might be enough to fix the thing. If you post pictures of the damage, someone might be able to assist you. At the least, you might be able to sell it to someone who is willing to repair it.

I've soldered the contacts back on. Was expecting it to work after that but it didnt so either the contacts are still not perfect or something on the motherboard got to warm or something else that I can't fix with my limited knowledge of these things :-)

[Kent Walters]

This is a response to an off-topic question asked on the IREX DR 800SG with 3G wireless thread

CSV,

If it’s just pictures of the DR1000S’ innards that you want to see, maandag has that pretty well covered. Maandag only went as far as he needed to go to replace his broken USB socket, but when I have finished my experiments on the broken screen one, I will fully disassemble it, and will post pictures here; don’t hold your breath...

I opened the broken screen DR1000S the night I recieved it from China. Maandag used a more brute force approach than I did, and I managed to do it without causing cosmetic damage. It doesn’t seem to me that the average DR owner will be able to open the case without causing some damage to the very fragile hooks, or latches--interlocking tabs--that hold the DR’s covers to the light grey frame (shown in maandag’s pictures), or even the screen.

Although case damage could be easily repaired, it would require glue to fully restore the case strength (making it that much harder to open again, if needed). I think a better approach, as far as changing the battery or adding a battery ‘off’ switch, would be to just cut a hole in the back of the case and make a battery door.

As far as replacing the USB socket, I’m inclined to believe that patatan’s solution https://www.mobileread.com/forums/showthread.php?t=57109 poses less risk to the screen than prying apart the case, even if it is inelegant. Plastic modelling techniques, and maybe some customizing, would make this more apealing.

I do plan to post instructions on removing the cover, replacing and/or upgading the battery, and installing a switch.

Kent Walters

[omro]

I just literally knocked my DR off the table and it was still connected via USB and now the USB won't charge, will they fix that under warranty or am I best off trying to open it up and seeing if I can reseat the USB?

I'll look forward to reading how to open the DR without damaging it.

[Shaggy]

Originally Posted by omro

I just literally knocked my DR off the table and it was still connected via USB and now the USB won't charge, will they fix that under warranty or am I best off trying to open it up and seeing if I can reseat the USB?

It can't hurt to ask them, that's the only way you'll find out.

I could guess, but I don't know how meaningful it would be.

[omro]

Originally Posted by Shaggy

It can't hurt to ask them, that's the only way you'll find out.

I could guess, but I don't know how meaningful it would be.

I'll send libresco an email, they are who I bought it through. Just so bloody tedious.

I guess the other socket can't be attached to something for charging purposes?

[omro]

are there screws under all the rubber pads?

[Kent Walters]

omro,

I don’t know your level of electronic expertise, but there are some precautions that need to be taken if you go forward and do the repair yourself. I think it’s time that these be mentioned, anyway, so please don’t be offended.

General Precautions:

ESD (Electro Static Discharge, or static electricity) can destroy the components on the circuit board. At the very least, do the work on a non-conductive surface (but a grounded ESD work mat would be best), and, using a grounded soldering iron, while wearing a ground strap (these can be had cheaply from vendors of computer memory chips, or electronic supply outlets). Once you get inside, be careful not to touch any circuit traces or pads. ESD damage is not apparent to the eye or nose, the only indication will be that the device will function improperly, or not at all. Be careful. If you choose to make up your own grounding equipment, route your ground wires through a 1 meg ohm resister, to earth ground, and not directly to ground--the idea is to dissipate the charge slowly, without ‘shocking’ the components.

DR1000 Specific Precautions:

Disassembling the case will likely cause damage, cosmetic or worse. I suggest patatan’s solution (see my earlier post, above), as it allows you to choose the level of damage, and greatly reduces the chance of ESD, screen, or other damage. Accidents happen, and this minimizes risk.

After grounding yourself, as above, before you start working on the case, using a piece of bare wire, or something metallic, in your bare fingers, touch the metal shell of the Function Extension Slot--this will equalize the ground potentials of you and the board, and reduce the risk of ESD damage.

The four corner pieces and the case back are the only parts that need to be removed. Don’t force the four corner pieces off, see the homemade tool I made for this (attached below). Forcing these pieces off bends the hidden retaining latches on the DR’s frame (I bent one, and figured it out). There is only one screw that needs to be removed to remove the back cover, it’s under the center rubber foot; the other feet can be left alone. You will need something like a jeweler's screwdriver (flat tip) to pry out the rubber foot, and a #7 Torx screwdriver bit (T-7) to remove the screw (and the screws holding the circuit board). The case needs to be literally pried apart (avoid metal tools for this, they’ll cause scarring to the case. I used two credit cards for most of it, and the jeweler's screwdriver in places).

Start prying at one corner, and work your way around. To keep flexing to a minimum, plan to separate the back only a little at a time, going around two or three times (too much flexing might stress crack the screen). Take your time.

Once you have the cover removed, gently unplug the battery from the circuit board (pull the wires straight away from the board, in the direction they are pointing); do this without touching the board; hold the DR’s light grey plastic frame. Next, notice that there is a large square metallic area on the board, diagonally opposite the battery connector; touch this square, with your bare fingertip, for a few moments. This, and the metal shells of the sockets and SD card cage (also ground), should be the only metal you touch on the board, AT ALL.

There are 6 screws holding the board in place; 2 in the top corners; 2 at the sides, halfway up; and 2 more, one on each side of the Function Extension Slot. Remove these, being careful not to lose any--I had one run off to live with the dust bunnies, and it took a while to coax it back to its comrades.

The flexible ribbons, containing circuit traces, connected to both sides of the board, need to be removed next (leave the two at top alone). The sockets for these have small levers to hold the ribbons in place; the lift-to-unlock side is on the rear of the socket, opposite the ribbon. Gently lift these, using a jeweler’s screwdriver or something, until they stand straight up, no force should be necessary to remove the ribbons. Note that it is the back edge that lifts, not an end.

There is another plug (with wires going into the plug) next to the battery. Lifting the end of the board slightly, grab the wires and gently unplug this, in the same direction that the battery was unplugged.

Now, gently flip the board over, pivoting on the top ribbon cables, and being careful not to stress those cables. The board is now in position to replace the USB socket. Be sure to use a grounded soldering iron.

To reassemble, reverse the above, being careful to fully and squarely replace the ribbons and plugs.

If you have any questions, I’ll be happy to answer.

Kent Walters

[kleykenb]

Originally Posted by omro

I just literally knocked my DR off the table and it was still connected via USB and now the USB won't charge, will they fix that under warranty or am I best off trying to open it up and seeing if I can reseat the USB?

I'll look forward to reading how to open the DR without damaging it.

Broken usb is not something they fix under warranty and in fact it when I opened a call for my broken USB port they said the repair would cost 300Euro!
I think the reason for this is simple : they DON'T repair anything, they send a 'new' one. Opening the DR1000S without damaging it MAY be possible but since at least some force will be necessary there are no guarantees.
The way to start is by turning the device upside down, removing the knob in the middle as there you'll find the one screw that you need to screw loose. Everything else is held by plastic knobs that aren't ment to be unlocked and the plastic just is not that high-quality to prevent it from break-off so no guarantees at all.

[kleykenb]

there is one screw under the rubber knob in the middle of the back.
No other screws involved in keeping it togheter, only other screws are used to hold the motherboard in place, etc.