Alexa AI - all your Echo data are ours

[Quoth]

Originally Posted by j.p.s

It might be that your problem is a range of IP addresses that are blacklisted rather than your independent domain.

Yes, I've never had problems with hosted domains with various companies. With Ionos Germany currently (previously called 1and1).
I have to have gmail as a backups to the Domain Registrar and Hosting company. I can't justify expense of two separate suppliers for each though a I have a handful of Domains. Pity you can only rent a Domain name. Still, my hosting company up time (various outfits) has been better than some major suppliers over the last 25+ years.

Years ago you used to get free email from your Irish ISP. Some simply stopped and others changed to crazy subscription charges more than a Domain and proper hosting. I used to use an ISP email as backup comms to my providers.

[John F]

Originally Posted by JSWolf

A button needs to be pressed to turn your device on or off. A switch can be left on and you can use a smart plug to turn the device on or off.

So you are saying use a separate app (not Alexa) to control the smart plug?

[theducks]

Originally Posted by John F

What would the difference between a button and a switch be? With the smart switches, I can turn them on and off with either Alexa, or the button.

A Toggle Switch is a POSITIVE interrupter.
You (general population) do not know how modern buttons are implemented.
Most are LOGIC controls that bring an item out of some level Sleep. The item is never really OFF (0 power applied to anything past the inlet switch).

FWIW My web cams have a lens cover, just because it is possible to activate without the LED lighting. Little effort convenience has its privacy price (and pitfalls, when folk forget how to do it manually ).

[theducks]

Originally Posted by John F

So you are saying use a separate app (not Alexa) to control the smart plug?

A simple Keyfob clicker (IR or 900MHz). Not really very 'smart' (many of these are really simple AD hype), but it gets the job done and does not use WiFi or go much past 30'.

[John F]

Originally Posted by theducks

A Toggle Switch is a POSITIVE interrupter.
You (general population) do not know how modern buttons are implemented.
Most are LOGIC controls that bring an item out of some level Sleep. The item is never really OFF (0 power applied to anything past the inlet switch).

...

Maybe the general population is unfamiliar with what a button on a smart plug does? The button on smart plugs (at least the ones I have), either cuts power or provides power to whatever is plugged in.

[John F]

Originally Posted by theducks

A simple Keyfob clicker (IR or 900MHz). Not really very 'smart' (many of these are really simple AD hype), but it gets the job done and does not use WiFi or go much past 30'.

Sure, but personally, I would still use a smart plug. I could turn it off with Alexa, and push the button on the smart plug to turn it back on. If I really wanted a "fob", I would put the fob (relay?) before the smart plug.

[Quoth]

Originally Posted by theducks

A Toggle Switch is a POSITIVE interrupter.
You (general population) do not know how modern buttons are implemented.
Most are LOGIC controls that bring an item out of some level Sleep. The item is never really OFF (0 power applied to anything past the inlet switch).

FWIW My web cams have a lens cover, just because it is possible to activate without the LED lighting. Little effort convenience has its privacy price (and pitfalls, when folk forget how to do it manually ).

I fitted an inline "Torpedo" switch on my 32" monitor's mains cable as the PSU is otherwise always on. I use a 23" monitor and the 32" one is for visitors to my library, or mirror my screen to visitor, or set-box check Sat signals.

Anything with a touch switch or momentary action press button that is "instantly" active is not turning off. It's annoying as a signal on a port may "wake" it.

I will fit more real on/off switches on infrequently used stuff.

Do unplug the mains cable before cutting.

The lack of real switches is:
1) To save 50c.
2) Illusion of instant on, no boot. IMO the 0.5W standby is rare.
3) Part of hiding all controls. Monitors are now ghastly to adjust and TVs crippled if remote is lost or flat. Though sometimes there is a real power switch on the rear. Not when there is an external PSU.

Ironically a Linear transformer based PSU may take far less (almost nothing) than a SMPSU (brick or wall wart) when the equipment is really off.

[Frogm4n]

Originally Posted by rcentros

I didn't have my own server. I was using a virtual server from a provider, so you may be right on this. I put too much time into this about 8 or 9 years ago. But I may look into setting up a small server. Not today, though.

mwl recently published a book on setting up a mail server on the modern internet. I've been meaning to get around to do so myself, but I've been too content with the ease of having a forward from the registrar instead.

[rcentros]

Originally Posted by Frogm4n

mwl recently published a book on setting up a mail server on the modern internet. I've been meaning to get around to do so myself, but I've been too content with the ease of having a forward from the registrar instead.

Thanks for the link. I may look into this.

[nabsltd]

Originally Posted by DNSB

I've done the same for my home and at work. It is a bit of a pain to setup the SPF, DKIM and DMARC records along with DNSSEC and maintain them as needed.

I gave up on being able to configure DNSSEC, so I just pay $75/year to DNS Made Easy to host my external DNS.

All the e-mail bits were easy enough, although setting up DKIM signing on the outgoing e-mail server wasn't fun.

Originally Posted by DiapDealer

I had port issues. Local ISPs started blocking mailserver to mailserver communications (secure or otherwise) with residential accounts.

I've paid for a business ISP connection for 15 years or so. It's a bit more expensive, but without my static IPs, a FTTH 1Gbps symmetric connection is about $80/month. The same provider charges about $50/month for a residential connection (after the initial discount ends). It's worth it for them to leave all my traffic alone.

[leaston]

Originally Posted by JSWolf

The Alexa I have sitting next to me is not called Alexa. That way there is a lot less chance of accidentally triggering it when it's not supposed to be triggered, Also, there is a setting in the Alexa app to turn off saving of recordings.

The South Park Alexa episode is a very good reason to rename your Alexa.

I didn't even know the recordings were kept until much later when I went digging and was shocked at how much data was stored. Yeah, I know, niaive of me

I haven't seen the South Park episode and want to now.

[DNSB]

South Park Season 21, episode 1: White People Renovating Houses. One of the few South Park episodes I re-watched.

[crossi]

What echo data? I use mine for an alarm clock, timer, local weather, asking when stores open, ect. It's not like I use it for banking or anything.

[Quoth]

Originally Posted by crossi

What echo data? I use mine for an alarm clock, timer, local weather, asking when stores open, ect. It's not like I use it for banking or anything.

It's listening.

[salamanderjuice]

Originally Posted by Quoth

It's listening.

Yes. For the wake word. Which it does offline and locally. And then after the wake word it listens until you're done and sends that off to the server for processing.