Calibre opening books on first click - help?

[AnotherCat]

Originally Posted by BetterRed

I said I didn't want to start Mouse Wars III, so what do we get - Microswitch Wars IV

If I were Lily7, I would pop along to my local M-i-C shop and buy a $2.50 Volkswagen Beetle mouse

BR

One thing I can say is that often the cheap mice have better performing, (clickiness and life) micro-switches in them than Logitech's. Perhaps am just a FussyCat .

[Ripplinger]

Yes, bending that tiny spring wasn't bad... getting it back in place was absolutely horrible. After doing it the first time is when I hunted down spare microswitches and I found D2FC-F-7N (01Y2RN2 also on the switch). The switches inside the MX Revolution were Omron 2968RN7 D2FC-F-7N(10M), so I'm hoping these will work next time I need them. If not, I'll hunt down the others you said you know work, thanks for the info.

Microswitch battles are much more entertaining than mere mouse battles!

Edit: I think the 01Y2RN2 and 2968RN7 are possibly batch numbers. I've seen a lot of various numbers on the D2FC-F-7N switches where all else seems identical.

[AnotherCat]

Originally Posted by Ripplinger

...The switches inside the MX Revolution were Omron 2968RN7 D2FC-F-7N(10M), so I'm hoping these will work next time I need them. If not, I'll down others the ones you said you know work, thanks for the info.

Microswitch battles are much more entertaining than mere mouse battles!

Edit: I think the 01Y2RN2 and 2968RN7 are possibly batch numbers. I've seen a lot of various numbers on the D2FC-F-7N switches where all else seems identical.

Yes it is only the D2F and what follows (and being Omron as seem to be no-name ones around) that one needs worry about.

I have never found much information of the D2FC-F-7N switches that are the original fit in the mice and very few suppliers, apart from on eBay. The impression I get is that the D2FC-F7N and D2F-01F are probably the same switch, certainly all the dimensions are the same, except that the D2FC-s are perhaps taken straight from the D2F- switch production without sorting, or are those that lie on the outer parts of the bell curve distribution for specification after sorting, and then bulk bagged for cheap domestic game device use and distribution to those manufacturers, whereas the D2F-s are sorted from production as to meeting specification, i.e. lie on the central part of the specification bell curve distribution, for professional/higher quality use.

As I say, this is my impression only so may be entirely wrong, but it also does explain why the D2FC-s do not seem to appear at the likes of RS-Components, but do from eBay sellers and other bag breakdown outfits more serving of the likes of hobbyists. It also fits in with my experience of the D2F- switches just feeling to be higher quality in their "sharp" action plus I have yet to have one fail.

Bit of a hobbyhorse really arising from all the many Revolutions, M705s, etc. I have ever had failing young, but 'tis to be expected that cats have mouse fetishes . Apologies to the Original Poster if their problem turns out to not be switch bounce ones.

[theducks]

AC
It is not unusual for higher volume users to have a customized (now proprietary) variant part built to order.
It could be anything from additional/tighter QA tests to a slightly different 'action'.
(I used to work in 'test engineering'. We used to furnish IC's that had a really tight (cherry picked) spec for the OEM customer. The 'fallout' was still a fine product and got the standard part label. Just not the normal tolerance distribution spread )

The bottom line is there is only one place to be assured of getting the EXACT part... That is the Mouse suppliers stockroom.
All else is either 'close' or a fraudulently obtained design

[Ripplinger]

As expensive as some of Logitech's mice are (like the MX Revolution and Performance MX), you would think they could afford to use better quality parts. I've had the double-click problem with just about every Logitech mouse doing that when they get older. They sent me quite a few free replacements over the years because of it. A better quality microswitch from the start certainly would have been cheaper than replacing the entire mouse.

[AnotherCat]

@theducks

Yes I agree on the customized product possibility but I am told, I have not looked for myself, that Logitech are not the only ones using the same switch.

But going by the many complaints on the internet, especially from the gaming community, it seems Logitech are the ones most inclined to show switch bounce with age. But, another "but", that could be because Logitech mice may be in that market in far higher numbers than other mice due to their being great mice in every other respect.

Dunno the answer, but like Ripplinger, I don't know why they don't do something about it as even the good alternative switches are dead cheap in bulk so it is difficult to imagine that using a better switch could make more than a dollar or twos difference at retail in a product line which in other respects is held in pretty high regard.

[Ripplinger]

Maybe it's their sneaky way to try and force you into purchasing a new mouse thinking most people won't bother with the warranty. That intentional tactic wouldn't surprise me at all.

I've had every Logitech mouse I've ever owned fail eventually due to the double-click, from the cheapest to the most expensive, they all seem to use the same switch. And yes, I got a replacement always if legitimately within the warranty period (and 9 out of 10 times they were still under warranty). Nor did I ever feel bad about getting the replacement.

They should just start using better quality switches, this isn't a new problem for them or limited to one specific mouse line.

[BetterRed]

I'm keyboard centric - every LT keyboard I have ever had the misfortune to use has been absolute rubbish, the keys are mushy, they bounce, they stick, they go belly up.

At one place I did some contracting, the menu key (the one between the right ctrl & alt) had been removed on the system I was given to use. When I asked why I was told - we've had a lot of trouble with that key, they often put the computer to sleep so we remove them all - nobody uses them anyway. Within an hour I'd walked down the street and bought an no-name keyboard for $20. It was a large global German re-insurance company - their PC support guys weren't happy - tough, I was working for the Chief Actuary.

BR

[theducks]

I think LT design goal is a 'Light Touch' (thus the weak springs).

Like BR,
I came from a MSDOS2 background (no Mouse) and like (need) a solid Keyboard.

I used to haunt the Surplus Computer stores, and buy the older IBM 'Clicky' Keyboards for my personal use because they had a solid, Heavy feel.

[Ripplinger]

Originally Posted by theducks

I used to haunt the Surplus Computer stores, and buy the older IBM 'Clicky' Keyboards for my personal use because they had a solid, Heavy feel.

I remember having a few of those as well. And when I could no longer find them as replacements, I was not very happy about it. Those IBM keyboards were solid and well-built and lasted just about forever.

[BetterRed]

Originally Posted by Ripplinger

I remember having a few of those as well. And when I could no longer find them as replacements, I was not very happy about it. Those IBM keyboards were solid and well-built and lasted just about forever.

Search for buckling spring keyboards.

Unicomp are OKish and I think they're still manufactured.

Northgate are better but no longer manufactured, they're clackier and heavier than the IBM M's but not as clacky or heavy as the IBM F's.

BR