When did the Sony Reader Store Change?

[melmac]

Originally Posted by Kirtai

I have to wonder if they're going to use this to enforce the geographic restrictions you could bypass with the app.

I'm also curious if they have made any changes in this area in particular have they implemented IP checking? If anyone finds out please share

[Blue2u]

Originally Posted by JSWolf

The first thing to do is go create an account at Adobe.com. Then wait until you get your T1. Once you get your T1, you log into the Sony Store using your T1 and your Adobe.com account information to authorize your T1 for Adobe DRM.

Also, go check your library for eBooks it may have as there's probably a waiting list. And go to google.com and look up Apprentice Alf to learn how to remove eBook DRM.

Another thing to do is get the Moify ePub plugin. You can read about it over at the Calibre Plugin forum. Also give the Calibre forums a read to learn how to use it. Ask questions there is you need/want help. Also read the thread about the modified home screen in the Sony Developer Corner forum as you'll find out about the modified reading app that fixes the font switching bug.

One font I rather like on the T1 is Charis SIL. I'll post my modified Charis SIL that has smallcaps and is a little bit darker and better for eink contrast.

I also suggest getting a cover. I like the Sony Light Cover.

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/search...tialSearch=yes

You can get it from B&N for less and with free shipping in the US. They do ship outside the US. No idea the shipping to Canada.

JSWolf, thank you so much for your patience and detailed reply, I appreciate it!

I have another question regarding ADE. I have ADE on my computer now which shows my Kobo purchases, I use it for nothing else. However, I don't think I setup an 'Adobe ID'.
I pasted this from ADE website:
"After installation, the Setup Assistant wizard prompts you to activate Adobe Digital Editions (you must be online during this process). During activation, you have the option to authorize your computer with an Adobe ID."

I'm pretty sure I only selected 'authorize', but if not, where do you find your 'ID'? I assume once I've straightened that out I wait to authorize my T1 with ADE and that's it for the ADE portion of 'setup'?

Already familiar with Alf and some Calibre plugins [nothing too technical, just basic series sort, etc but am interested in the font portion. What are the fonts that come with factory T1? I usually just go with basic sans. And I already got lucky and bought the official Sony cover with light when they were on sale a couple of weeks ago.

I just want the transfer from my Kobo to my Sony to go smoothly and I'm not the most tech-savvy person by a long shot so it's a little intimidating. Especially with the amount of problems I had with my KT, it's made me very nervous to do any changes at all.

[ATDrake]

Originally Posted by Blue2u

I have another question regarding ADE. I have ADE on my computer now which shows my Kobo purchases, I use it for nothing else. However, I don't think I setup an 'Adobe ID'.

...

I'm pretty sure I only selected 'authorize', but if not, where do you find your 'ID'?

If you look at the Info panel in the ADE app (I forget what it's called, but you can find it through the menus) and it doesn't say something along the lines of "registered to EMAILADDRESS", this means your ADE is not linked to an Adobe ID and you should immediately use the "tools" to make stripped backups of your books and and also save a copy of the keyfile it generates.

(ETA: It's under Library/Authorize Computer from the library view and should say "This computer has been authorized to EMAILADDRESS". If you don't see that, whatever you do, don't click CTRL-D or CTRL-SHIFT-D, which is IIRC how you deauthorize an ADE setup.)

Adobe really ought to make people use or register an actual Adobe ID upon installing ADE because otherwise they run into serious problems. Other MR members have been burned by this before.

If your setup isn't registered, it means that you can only read the DRM books on that particular computer, and if anything happens so that you reinstall or even register a proper Adobe ID later, you lose access to all your previous books and since the Adobe content servers have already recorded your books as having been downloaded to that temporary "account", they won't let you re-download to a new one.

If that happens to be the case, do not in any way touch the registration of ADE until you have your pre-existing ADE-downloaded books stripped via the tools.

Originally Posted by Blue2u

What are the fonts that come with factory T1?

Mine comes with Amasis, Frutiger Neue, Palatino nova, Really No 2, Univers Next, and Verdana.

[Blue2u]

Originally Posted by ATDrake

If you look at the Info panel in the ADE app (I forget what it's called, but you can find it through the menus) and it doesn't say something along the lines of "registered to EMAILADDRESS", this means your ADE is not linked to an Adobe ID and you should immediately use the "tools" to make stripped backups of your books and and also save a copy of the keyfile it generates.

(ETA: It's under Library/Authorize Computer from the library view and should say "This computer has been authorized to EMAILADDRESS". If you don't see that, whatever you do, don't click CTRL-D or CTRL-SHIFT-D, which is IIRC how you deauthorize an ADE setup.)

Adobe really ought to make people use or register an actual Adobe ID upon installing ADE because otherwise they run into serious problems. Other MR members have been burned by this before.

If your setup isn't registered, it means that you can only read the DRM books on that particular computer, and if anything happens so that you reinstall or even register a proper Adobe ID later, you lose access to all your previous books and since the Adobe content servers have already recorded your books as having been downloaded to that temporary "account", they won't let you re-download to a new one.

If that happens to be the case, do not in any way touch the registration of ADE until you have your pre-existing ADE-downloaded books stripped via the tools.



Mine comes with Amasis, Frutiger Neue, Palatino nova, Really No 2, Univers Next, and Verdana.

My ADE is not registered.
So to keep a 'stripped' copy I just save the epub version from my actual Calibre folder and not the epub from the ADE folder?
And by key you mean the .acsm file?
And then I can go ahead and register to get an ADE ID which can then be used for both my Kobo and my Sony?
Should I uninstall the ADE version I have and start fresh?

And thanks for the information on the fonts, I'll probably just stick with those. As I said before, I'm trying to keep this setup as simple as possible.

[ATDrake]

Originally Posted by Blue2u

My ADE is not registered.
...
So to keep a 'stripped' copy I just save the epub version from my actual Calibre folder and not the epub from the ADE folder?
...
Should I uninstall the ADE version I have and start fresh?

Not yet. Do not touch the ADE you have right now. Not until you are absolutely sure your books are entirely backed up.

The key file is not the ACSM (those are just pointer files that tell the software where to find the book to download, and they eventually expire), but the "Local Adept Key.der" that the tools generate the first time you load and introduce them to your system. You can find this somewhere in your user preferences/settings folder.

(On the Mac, it's in ~/Library/Preferences/com.apprenticealf.dedrm. I'll see if I can find it on Windows on the netbook again.)

As long as you save a copy of your Local Adept Key.der (it's safe to rename it to something different like OldAdobe.der) then in the future you can use to to keep unlocking copies of your old DRMed books by feeding it into the new versions of the tools, in case they come up with something that fixes problems with the old unDRMing stuff.

I would advise saving copies of both your original downloaded books and the un-DRMed ones from Calibre or directly from the tools if using the Python scripts, etc. for exactly that reason.

Once you've checked each and every copy of your non-DRMed books to be sure that they open in a non-DRM ePub reader (you could use the ePubReader plugin for Firefox to check) and you've a copy of the Local Adept Key file, then you can go ahead and create yourself a proper Adobe ID. You won't need to reinstall ADE, you just register properly from within the app when it asks you, IIRC.

This will make your old DRMed books unreadable and un-redownloadable, but you'll be able to link your Kobo and your Sony to the new Adobe ID and get your books onto both devices and re-download any new files from then on and transfer them to wherever you please.

Sorry this seems like such a complicated hassle when you just wanted something that would easily work, but it's really Adobe's fault for setting up situations like this involving peoples' purchased items.

[Blue2u]

Originally Posted by ATDrake

Not yet. Do not touch the ADE you have right now. Not until you are absolutely sure your books are entirely backed up.

The key file is not the ACSM (those are just pointer files that tell the software where to find the book to download, and they eventually expire), but the "Local Adept Key.der" that the tools generate the first time you load and introduce them to your system. You can find this somewhere in your user preferences/settings folder.

(On the Mac, it's in ~/Library/Preferences/com.apprenticealf.dedrm. I'll see if I can find it on Windows on the netbook again.)

As long as you save a copy of your Local Adept Key.der (it's safe to rename it to something different like OldAdobe.der) then in the future you can use to to keep unlocking copies of your old DRMed books by feeding it into the new versions of the tools, in case they come up with something that fixes problems with the old unDRMing stuff.

I would advise saving copies of both your original downloaded books and the un-DRMed ones from Calibre or directly from the tools if using the Python scripts, etc. for exactly that reason.

Once you've checked each and every copy of your non-DRMed books to be sure that they open in a non-DRM ePub reader (you could use the ePubReader plugin for Firefox to check) and you've a copy of the Local Adept Key file, then you can go ahead and create yourself a proper Adobe ID. You won't need to reinstall ADE, you just register properly from within the app when it asks you, IIRC.

This will make your old DRMed books unreadable and un-redownloadable, but you'll be able to link your Kobo and your Sony to the new Adobe ID and get your books onto both devices and re-download any new files from then on and transfer them to wherever you please.

Sorry this seems like such a complicated hassle when you just wanted something that would easily work, but it's really Adobe's fault for setting up situations like this involving peoples' purchased items.

First, THANK YOU SO much for being so helpful and patient!


2] I found 2 .der keys, 1 under ADE, 1 in Calibre. I will backup the ADE, and Calibre one also?

3] I assumed the 'Alf' downloads along with the Calibre plug-ins [stripping] did all the work for you, is that correct?

4] I won't do anything until I know that files are stripped [see 3^] and will backup all the purchased epubs AND acsm files I have.


5] I understand when I do all this and create ID I will lose all my purchases in ADE, which is fine, I only used it to download Kobo purchases to my computer. [I then put them in my Calibre library and sync my Kobo that way and hope I am able to use my Sony that way as well]

Again, thank you, I really do appreciate it. And you have nothing to be sorry for, from everything I've read this afternoon regarding ADE/DRM they are the ones who make this a PITA, not you!

[ATDrake]

Originally Posted by Blue2u

2] I found 2 .der keys, 1 under ADE, 1 in Calibre. I will backup the ADE, and Calibre one also?

Probably the Calibre one is the most important, but it can't hurt to backup both. Name them different things if you want to make sure you don't accidentally overwrite one with the other or otherwise get them mixed up.

Originally Posted by Blue2u

3] I assumed the 'Alf' downloads along with the Calibre plug-ins [stripping] did all the work for you, is that correct?

I actually don't use Calibre (too slow to open on my older computers) and just go directly via the Python scripts and the DeDRM droplet app, which are both a good way to test that you've got a working Local Adept Key.der that you can use in the future.

Those allow you to pick which one you want to use to try unlocking a particular set of books (I currently have two, due to early setup issues with ADE of my own, which resulted in my having two Adobe IDs that my books went to. But at least I can strip them both at a time on a single user account on just the one computer).

If you think you're okay with installing Python and running those versions of the tools (easy enough to double-click and use the pop-up wizard to tell it where the books are and which key you want to try them with), then it's a good way to make double-sure of your backup and that your books really will decode again in the future if you need them to. (Running the DeDRM app will also guide you through a setup which will create another copy of the Local Adept Key.der in your settings folder which you can use as extra insurance.)

Anyway, hope it goes well for you.

[luvduchovny]

Originally Posted by petercreasey

L, Thanks, I'll look forward to hearing how it works for you.

I meant to write back yesterday but was home sick and thus asleep most of the day.

When you go to the ebookstore website on your computer and click the Download Now button on your purchase, it does two things. Thing one: if you have the Sony Reader for PC installed it pops up and loads the book there. (Boo!) BUT if you close that and go to (on Windows 7 or Vista) Users/[your username]/My Documents/My Books/Reader/ the epub file will be there. From there you can do a drag and drop to your reader with no problems.

If you are on WindowsXP you would to to Documents and Settings/[your username]/My Documents/My Books/Reader

[Blue2u]

Originally Posted by ATDrake

Probably the Calibre one is the most important, but it can't hurt to backup both. Name them different things if you want to make sure you don't accidentally overwrite one with the other or otherwise get them mixed up.



I actually don't use Calibre (too slow to open on my older computers) and just go directly via the Python scripts and the DeDRM droplet app, which are both a good way to test that you've got a working Local Adept Key.der that you can use in the future.

Those allow you to pick which one you want to use to try unlocking a particular set of books (I currently have two, due to early setup issues with ADE of my own, which resulted in my having two Adobe IDs that my books went to. But at least I can strip them both at a time on a single user account on just the one computer).

If you think you're okay with installing Python and running those versions of the tools (easy enough to double-click and use the pop-up wizard to tell it where the books are and which key you want to try them with), then it's a good way to make double-sure of your backup and that your books really will decode again in the future if you need them to. (Running the DeDRM app will also guide you through a setup which will create another copy of the Local Adept Key.der in your settings folder which you can use as extra insurance.)

Anyway, hope it goes well for you.

I HATE ADE!

I *think* I got it, after hours and hours. Ticks me off, to save books that I bought and paid for....

The only books it won't work on are the books I had bought on my old computer, and since it won't work on those, I assume Calibre/Alf are doing their job and that none of my books did have the DRM after all...

Is there an easy way to check that all MY books are now drm free, other than loading another program on my computer to find out? ie, file extension?

And now what do I do with my second library that I keep for all the Kindle freebies that I've downloaded over the past few months? I download and run through Calibre and save them in 2nd library and keep on SD card which I've never used because KoboTouch is so finnicky with cards. How the heck do I check those?

All this because I want to BUY books from the new Sony store with my new T1 and keep my old books that I BOUGHT for my Kobo.

Any and all patient help is appreciated by this non-tech savvy person...

[ATDrake]

Originally Posted by Blue2u

Is there an easy way to check that all MY books are now drm free, other than loading another program on my computer to find out? ie, file extension?

Not exactly, but if you have the DeDRM droplet from the tools set up to output stripped books into a separate folder and you drag and drop your original folder full of books onto it, then it will give you a warning message at the end that "list of so-and-so titles were not encrypted" when it runs into the non-DRM stuff, and it automatically adds _nodrm to the filename, which is really helpful for just visually checking.

Originally Posted by Blue2u

And now what do I do with my second library that I keep for all the Kindle freebies that I've downloaded over the past few months? ... How the heck do I check those?

There's actually another script included in the tools that will check and report on the DRM status of any Mobi format books.

Originally Posted by Blue2u

All this because I want to BUY books from the new Sony store with my new T1 and keep my old books that I BOUGHT for my Kobo.

I'm sorry it's gotten so complicated. This is why, out of all the current restrictive DRM schemes out there, the only one I actually approve of is the B&N/eReader DRM, which uses your name and credit card # as a glorified password for your files, which you only have to ever download and enter once, and you don't have to authorize or register stuff, and you can download the files directly from the store's website without feeding through another app, and if ever your CC# changes and you buy new books, then the supporting reader app/device will automatically record it as a new "password" while keeping the old CC's unlock info intact as well, so you can combine purchases from many different accounts.

Hopefully in future iterations, Sony will activate the part of the Adobe SDK which supports B&N-style DRM. Or Adobe will at least force people to register/enter an Adobe ID when installing Digital Editions so that their books will be still be portable to other devices, no matter what.

[Blue2u]

Originally Posted by ATDrake

Not exactly, but if you have the DeDRM droplet from the tools set up to output stripped books into a separate folder and you drag and drop your original folder full of books onto it, then it will give you a warning message at the end that "list of so-and-so titles were not encrypted" when it runs into the non-DRM stuff, and it automatically adds _nodrm to the filename, which is really helpful for just visually checking.

I just get 'sucess' or 'failure'. I'm sure I've done something wrong along the way, but looking over the successes, these are all the purchased/drm books that I've bought on my new computer, and those do end up with 'nodrm' tag. Anything I bought on my old computer end up as 'failure'. At this point, in some strange way, it's making sense, and I'm ok with that!

There's actually another script included in the tools that will check and report on the DRM status of any Mobi format books.

Problem is I download them and immediately put them in Calibre and convert them to epub. I 'guess' that the convert feature wouldn't work if they were still DRM? And honestly at this point, I wouldn't know where to start...

I'm sorry it's gotten so complicated. This is why, out of all the current restrictive DRM schemes out there, the only one I actually approve of is the B&N/eReader DRM, which uses your name and credit card # as a glorified password for your files, which you only have to ever download and enter once, and you don't have to authorize or register stuff, and you can download the files directly from the store's website without feeding through another app, and if ever your CC# changes and you buy new books, then the supporting reader app/device will automatically record it as a new "password" while keeping the old CC's unlock info intact as well, so you can combine purchases from many different accounts.

Hopefully in future iterations, Sony will activate the part of the Adobe SDK which supports B&N-style DRM. Or Adobe will at least force people to register/enter an Adobe ID when installing Digital Editions so that their books will be still be portable to other devices, no matter what.

Sounds great to me!!! This is why although I LOVE finding out about 'new' technology, I'm SO hesitant to rush in and try it. It took me months to decide to try the Kobo, and now 1.5 years later, here I am, but I swear I've spent more time learning how to use it to varying degrees than I have actually reading on it. And to be honest I'm not excited as much as I'm terrified of setting up my new T1. *shakes head* It's a love/hate relationship, if only technology were always as easy it sounded!

ATDrake, I really appreciate your help and patience. It's the kindness of people like you and others here at MBR as well that keep my faith in people. A very sincere thank you to you.

[ATDrake]

Originally Posted by Blue2u

I just get 'sucess' or 'failure'. I'm sure I've done something wrong along the way, but looking over the successes, these are all the purchased/drm books that I've bought on my new computer, and those do end up with 'nodrm' tag. Anything I bought on my old computer end up as 'failure'. At this point, in some strange way, it's making sense, and I'm ok with that!
...
I 'guess' that the convert feature wouldn't work if they were still DRM?

Yes, that's exactly right. As long as Calibre can convert your books to another format or doesn't complain about them when you try, then they aren't DRM to begin with, or have been successfully un-DRMed.

Glad to hear you seem to have things sorted out now. Hopefully you might be able to use the tools to retrieve the unlock info from the old computer if you still have it around, but otherwise it looks like things are pretty much working okay on your end.