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#61 |
Sith Wannabe
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#62 |
Wizzard
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Okay, I have a bit of time before my next class, so:
The Quick And Dirty Guide to the Minimum Amount of Info You Need to Get a Working Non-Affiliate eBook Link at Amazon & B&N 1) Amazon They love to put a lot of cruft after the original link, possibly to additionally track how you browse their site. The minimum you need for a Kindle book is a simple prefix and the ASIN product number for the book. As an example, here's the typical URL you get via direct search on Amazon for their bestselling freebie, The Adventures of Sherlock Holmes Much of it you don't need to reach the book, and you can safely lop off everything but the bolded portion (the trailing slash after the ASIN is useful for telling if you've the full ASIN in there, but not actually required). Code:
http://www.amazon.com/Adventures-Sherlock-Holmes-ebook/dp/B000JQU1VS/ref=sr_1_1?s=digital-text&ie=UTF8&qid=1317328863&sr=1-1 In fact, if you came in through some link-obfuscating redirect, you can simply cut and paste the ASIN in the Product Details section on the page, and copy it into a stripped down URL like so: Code:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000JQU1VS/ Changing the .com to .co.uk or .de will give you an equally valid link for UK & DE Kindlers (provided the Kindle version exists at all in their separate catalogue). b) B&N They've got two different types of valid minimal URL. You will get something which looks like this upon running NookBook Search from their website: Code:
http://www.barnesandnoble.com/w/complete-sherlock-holmes-volume-i-arthur-conan-doyle/1100318390?ean=9781411431973&itm=1&usri=sherlock%2bholmes%2bbarnes%2bnoble%2bclassics That page goes to the aggregate all-editions version of the B&N Classics The Complete Sherlock Holmes, Volume I, of which there are 2 Nook editions listed right below in the formats box below the price. They go to different URLs for a free and non-free version and look like this: Code:
(free) http://search.barnesandnoble.com/Complete-Sherlock-Holmes-Volume-I/Arthur-Conan-Doyle/e/2940000952634 Code:
(unfree) http://search.barnesandnoble.com/Complete-Sherlock-Holmes-Volume-I/Arthur-Conan-Doyle/e/9781411431973 You will probably see the BN ID for digital-only editions (or are variants on the paper; this one is part of the special NookStudy College Kick-Start Kit promo) and ISBN-13 for books with a paper edition. Again, everything after that number is not needed and you can safely delete. Unfortunately, if you are there via link obfuscator, you can't just cut out any title/author parts of the URL and just leave the ID number for that form of link. However, B&N also has a number-only variant which you can cut and paste the ID into to get a perfectly clean URL: Code:
http://search.barnesandnoble.com/booksearch/isbninquiry.asp?EAN=2940000952634 A variant form that shows up when your browse your My Nook Library on the website looks like Code:
http://mynook.barnesandnoble.com/productDetail.html?ean=2940000952634 I don't know if this form of link will fail to show a product page if you don't already own the book. In summary: To get a clean link for an ebook from Amazon and B&N, all you need is the ASIN or BN ID/ISBN-13 from the Details on the book's own product page and an easily cut and pasted standard website prefix and you should be good to go. I'll address Sony & Kobo links later, but for now, hope this helps! |
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#63 |
eBook Enthusiast
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Very useful indeed. Thank you!
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#64 |
lost in my e-reader...
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I respectfully really have to disagree. I think ATDrake's instructions (post #62) were very clear, and my thanks for that.
But I'm afraid for me, having almost an entire page of instructions just on how to create clean links for only TWO of the many places one might find bargains one would wish to share is not very useful at all. I might guess there's another set of equally lengthy instructions on how to handle Sony and Kobo, and then more for some of the other bookstores, and what about places that sell e-readers, and so on and so on... Somehow I just can't get my mind around the idea that I have to become a "master-hunter-out of hidden affiliate links" to be able to post a bargain without running the risk of being called a liar, like poor "apesmom". Instead, I'll probably just quit posting bargains, and although I only ever posted a few, this seems sad. Last edited by sufue; 09-30-2011 at 12:19 AM. |
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#65 | |
Wizzard
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Quote:
Inkmesh's Kobo and Sony links are actually direct-links with no affiliate tagging as far as I can tell, and yield the exact same URLs as I find when I direct-search on Kobo and Sony's own websites for the exact same products in a different browser. It's really just Amazon and B&N which are mildly problematic that way, since they have so many potential variants in their URLs, and I'm afraid I may have been overly verbose in demonstrating them. In any case, for most e-book selling places, you don't actually need to do most of the deep-cleaning steps and can just get by with cutting off everything after a certain point in most forms of the URL, and it's pretty easy to understand the underlying pattern of how to do it. Amazon: just look for the "dp" portion in the link, keep the ASIN number right after that, and delete anything else which follows. You don't even have to look up the ASIN on the product page; just start cutting once you see a non-number such as & or % or ?, which is where the referrer/tracking info starts. B&N: depending on what form of the link you have, cut right after the "e" followed by the long number or the EAN= and its number. Again, any non-numeric character such as ? right after will be the start of the useless stuff. Kobo: cut everything after the /page1.html part which will follow after a rather long jumble of mixed-case letters which itself is after the book title. -1.html if it's one of their lists of themed ebooks to browse through. Sony: cut everything after the long number which follows the /_/R- after the book title. Smashwords: same thing; you only have to keep the short number after the /view/. Basically, for most e-book places it'll work if you just dump everything after the first number string you see after the book's title (if the title is included in the URL) except for B&N where you may have to wait for the EAN marker before you can start chopping. You don't really have to remember anything more than that. Assuming you're posting links which start with the .com address of the website the deal's at, and not reposting a doubleclick.net or bit.ly redirect version, of course. Last edited by ATDrake; 09-30-2011 at 12:52 AM. Reason: Quoted for context, and fix word omissions for clarity. |
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#66 | |
lost in my e-reader...
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Quote:
Thanks, and again clear instructions. BUT, my point was that I used to be able to just copy and paste a link into a post on the rare occasions when I was the first to find a bargain. I could test it in the "preview post" screen to make sure it still went to the bargain, and then just post. Now I have to edit the link, and worry about whether I missed some tag, and risk being called a liar if I do miss something. Only speaking for myself, and especially since I'm not a prolific poster of bargains and would have to dig out your nice instructions every time, it's probably just not worth it. I don't know, the next time I find an as-yet-unposted bargain, I may just post it without a link, and put enough info (hopefully) in the post that folks can Google it themselves and find the deal. Although, now that I think about it, maybe I'd better not say "Google it" either, since that might be regarded as sending folks to Google, who I know make money off anyone clicking through from one of their links, and that might qualify as a hidden affiliate link. (And, sarcasm alert - the last sentence is only partly tongue-in-cheek.) Sigh! |
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#67 | |
Wizzard
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Quote:
I think if we had a clear policy in place that reassured posters that they wouldn't be taken to task for honest mistakes and please take these simple precautions when posting to let us know that you understand and are trying to follow the rules, even if one of those pesky affiliates slips past, it would go a long way towards alleviating that. |
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#68 | |
lost in my e-reader...
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Quote:
Have to sign off now...past my (rather early) bedtime... |
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#69 | |
Wizard
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Quote:
You all are making this way too complicated. ![]() |
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#70 |
Wizzard
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I'm usually a direct-searcher myself, but the guide above was in response to a poster upthread who wanted to know where the affiliate stuff was contained in certain links and how much she could edit out without destroying the link entirely.
I agree that going straight to the website by typing in the URL yourself and then running the search using their own engine will practically guarantee a clean link* and is probably the easiest solution for most posters, even if it might take a little more time than just clicking through where they saw it first. But for Amazon, it can save you time if you just grab the ASIN from the product page you're already on, type "www.amazon.com", stick a "/dp/" after that, and then paste on the ASIN instead of opening up a new tab and running a search and waiting for the results. * Well, a fairly crufty link in Amazon's case because of that probably-tracking stuff they like to stick on, but otherwise one that's safe to use. Last edited by ATDrake; 09-30-2011 at 01:42 AM. Reason: Superfluous orphaned parenthesis. |
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#71 | |
Wizard
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Quote:
Good idea about copying the ASIN - I've never done that and I'll have to try it. I usually see a book by a particular author or publisher that's been discounted and then have to meander around and see what else might be on sale also so I never end up going there directly. lol |
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#72 | |
lost in my e-reader...
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Quote:
And I do click on affiliate links since I don't mind "tipping" the folks who do the work of finding the bargains for me, so this would be a real risk. JMTCW...I'm sure lots of other folks won't mind having to check their links before posting, or the assumption they must have had bad intentions if they do goof and post an evil affiliate link. For me though, the simplest solution, if I do bother to post a deal in the future, is going to be to just post general info with no link, and let other readers have to search for it on their own. More hassle for them, but should be workable. |
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#73 |
Wizard
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This is becoming a very bad PR move. It might be a good move and needed to some, but the execution was not good and has caused undo angst about the users of this forum IMO.
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#74 |
Sith Wannabe
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I really don't understand the hang-up a lot of people seem to have about the "called a liar" part. Be upset about rudeness, sure, I understand that. But personally offended that a stranger on the internet has said something unflattering about someone else?
Certain people in this forum need to grow thicker skin. It's not healthy to care this much about what complete strangers think of you. |
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#75 | |
Wizard
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Quote:
You only need to click on the affiliate link if you are actually buying what you are posting. Yes, that is another option, to just not post the link. |
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