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Old 05-19-2011, 08:29 AM   #11506
Iridal
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For me, it's just because I have a cup of coffee every single morning, and if I miss it I get a headache. Mild caffeine withdrawal, I guess, even though that's usually the only caffeine I get these days. Or maybe it's psychological -- I just THINK I need my coffee.

In my cup -- black coffee.
For me it's definitely psychological. I feel like I can't function if I don't have a cup of coffee in the morning. But somewhere deep down I know that's not true, because I often give up drinking coffee altogether. And once I get used to it, I function better than on days when I have a cup of coffee in the morning. But getting used to life without coffee is the hard part

Water in my cup!
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Old 05-19-2011, 09:16 AM   #11507
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As usual, excuse the typo's * and other things.
I missed(almost) one day; can't be helped.

25th day of travel:
Esfahan:is an Unesco World Heritage Site and a city of 1.6 million inhabitants.It dates from the 2nd century A.D, and is said to be one of the finest cities in the Persian world. It was already renowed for its beauty in the ancient Persian world with its beautiful gardens, buildings, tea-houses and bridges. Byron, the well-known English poet, compared Esfahan to Rome and Athens.

The heart of this beautiful city is the Imam Square (Naqsh-e Jahan square). It was build to be famous in the 16h century for its beautiful buildings. Nasq-e Jahan = pattern of the world. The construction of this square began in 1602,under the reign of Shah Abbas the Great(Safavid Empire 1502-1736),
who wanted it as the centerpiece of his new capital.
Around this square are some of the finest buildings of the Safavid Empire:Immam Mosque,Sheikh Lotfollah Mosque, Ali Quapu Palace and the Qeyesarieh Portal.
The square is 512x163 meter and a big one at that. It is surrounded by two layers of arcades; of which the upper level is empty.It has a lot of tiny shops with handicrafts, toys, candy, copperware and clothes on the inside of these arcades.

And it is a huge square, as I saw this night. Grass and water in the middle and dozens of tiny shops under the arcades. It is as crowded as on Times Square.*
I think I saw more chadors than in Shiraz. Women wear more calf-length jackets there and not as much the somewhat mysterious full-length flowing chador I saw in Shiraz.

The bazaar in Esfahan is somehow more commercial than the one in Shiraz. Glass displays and it seems more organised. But still very exotic. The shops in-and outside the bazar are always run by men.They start working at ten- take a siesta from 1 to 4- and continue till ten in the evening.
I saw gigantic copper vessels, so big that I could have taken a bath in it. Makes me wonder what the Iranians cook in there. And piles of copper pots and pans. Huge samovars and iron half-lifesized statues of rearing horses, an eagle with a fish in its beak and many more.

The three words that describes these bazars: huge-glitter-masses. Tiny handpainted vases and man-sized ones,sparkling chandeliers and huge glass-bowls, lots of merchandise, overflowing.

Thursday, the next morning:
We went to see (new)Jolfa, the Armenian quarter.
In 1604 Shah Abbas I 'invited' the Armenians (Christians) from the North, from the a town called Jolfa; because of their skills as artists and merchants.*
They were promised the land across the river Zayandeh, with freedom to
practise their religion, the Armenian Orthodox church. Together with the Jews, they were isolated from the Islamic communities and centers. There are now some 7000 Christians left in that area.

These Armenians decorated the Vank Cathedral that was initialized at 1606 A.D.;it is still an important religious building today for the Armenian community in Iran.
The cathedral is not that big, but is adorned with gold ceilings and oilpaintings from top to bottom. The paintings and engravings depict scenes from the old-and new Testament. It is done in Armenia-Persian, western-Armenian style, but also influenced by Europe; through the merchants contacts with Venice and
Amsterdam. And beautiful they are, really stunning: colors fresh, gold glistening softly.*

In the small museum next to the cathedral I saw some of the old Armenian religious books; breviary's and gospels which the monks from the monestary brought with them in the 15 th century.These are illuminated in the Russian/Armenian style: front-faced figures and a gold halo round the holy portraits.

And a commemoration for the Armenian genocide that was started by Turkey on 24-4-1915. They took the life of appr.1.5 million Western Armenians from the eastern Turkish provinces of Turkey.*
Last year, when I was in Turkey, our Turkish guide explained it all: the Turks gave money and weapons to the Armenians, to fight together the rebels from the Balkan and behold......they turned around to fight the Turks....what could they do? (but to kill 1.5 mi.?)
I don't know which version is right, but at the time, a minority of Armenians had a lot of influence in the Turkish governement and that caused friction.
After the genocide, many Armenians fled to Esfahan.

And we saw two more Armenian churches in Jolfa; the Miriamchurch(Maria) and the Church of Holy Bethlehem (1628 A.D).The latter also had beautiful oilpaintings and gilded ceilings, but on a smaller scale, and it was being restored.

On to Manar Jomban, or the 'shaking minnarets'.
Added to the 14 th century tomb of Abu Abdullah, a revered dervish, these 17th century minnarets will start to shake both, when one of the minnarets is
pushed hard, from the inside by a care-taker. Well, what can I say...it is not worth a long trip, but curious....earthquake proof, I would say.

Another highlight is the bridges.The Zayadeh river, which runs through Esfahan is known for its bridges. There are 11 of them and 6 are old( ca.300 years or more).Those bridges used to be famous for its teahouses, where young people could meet, but due to the religious conservatists they are practically all closed.
I saw the Si-o-Seh Bridge, which is 298 m.long, has 33 arches and is build between 1599 and 1602. It serves both as a bridge and dam. There was no water under it now, but it looked very charming with all the arches.

Not a full day today, but I will save some sights for tomorrow, the last day of our stay in Esfahan. On saturday we will be going back to Tehran and later that day, in the night we'll fly to Amsterdam. See you on saturday.

Last edited by desertblues; 05-19-2011 at 09:24 AM.
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Old 05-19-2011, 09:25 AM   #11508
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It depends on whether you see coffee as a gourmet beverage, or a caffeine delivery system. Morning coffee is a ritual with me. I buy my coffee as green, unroasted beans, roast my own in 150 gram batches, grind it properly with a burr grinder only when ready to brew, use water heated to the proper temperature for coffee extraction (195°F), allow three minutes of steep time and enjoy a great cup of coffee while I catch up on the news.
Now that's dedication to the cause!
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Old 05-19-2011, 09:27 AM   #11509
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Not a full day today, but I will save some sights for tomorrow, the last day of our stay in Esfahan. On saturday we will be going back to Tehran and later that day, in the night we'll fly to Amsterdam. See you on saturday.
Safe flight(s), and thanks for the update.
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Old 05-19-2011, 10:19 AM   #11510
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Old 05-19-2011, 10:20 AM   #11511
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safe flight blues .....


black coffee #2
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Old 05-19-2011, 11:28 AM   #11512
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Old 05-19-2011, 12:29 PM   #11513
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Usually - I've got an espresso machine, but for bulk consumption I like filter - often make 1.5 litres first thing and jack myself up on it throughout the morning. Grinding takes less than a minute!
best way to have decent coffee! Although I think your coffee isn't - er, I can't find a suitable word - "dense" enough. In my country people drink extremely "dense" coffee (they say you have to brush your teeth after drinking a small glass ) and if you drink 1.5 l of this coffee you'll probably faint

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But getting used to life without coffee is the hard part
esp. when it is topped with whipped cream and syrup...

@ Blues: I wonder why you post your reports here. Seriously, you should start a brand new thread! Think of a good title when time's ample.

in my mug: new tea. Dilmah's Ceylon, vanilla flavor (yes, it's artificial, I know!)
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Old 05-19-2011, 12:39 PM   #11514
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@ Blues: I wonder why you post your reports here. Seriously, you should start a brand new thread! Think of a good title when time's ample.

in my mug: new tea. Dilmah's Ceylon, vanilla flavor (yes, it's artificial, I know!)
Most of the times I don't have enough internet time, and cannot browse all threads, so I thought of a thread where I can post what I eat and drink ( tea!!!! For a coffee- addict). The tea- information is the reason I post here. I like the teadrinkers to see what they can get in Iran. Only one more travelpost to go.

In my cup: Twinings earl grey, that has a slightly sugarry after- taste, though I don't take sugar.
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Old 05-19-2011, 01:38 PM   #11515
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Most of the times I don't have enough internet time, and cannot browse all threads, so I thought of a thread where I can post what I eat and drink ( tea!!!! For a coffee- addict). The tea- information is the reason I post here. I like the teadrinkers to see what they can get in Iran. Only one more travelpost to go.

In my cup: Twinings earl grey, that has a slightly sugarry after- taste, though I don't take sugar.
And because you know we're all here! I don't always look at new threads, but I'm subscribed to this one so I haven't missed any of your posts. Be safe travelling home, and report in when you get there!
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Old 05-19-2011, 01:42 PM   #11516
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And because you know we're all here! I don't always look at new threads, but I'm subscribed to this one so I haven't missed any of your posts. Be safe travelling home, and report in when you get there!
Too right, thanks Betty. one post to go.....
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Old 05-19-2011, 02:03 PM   #11517
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Too right, thanks Betty. one post to go.....
I'll be so relieved when you are back!
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Old 05-19-2011, 02:25 PM   #11518
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Old 05-19-2011, 02:26 PM   #11519
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Originally Posted by desertblues View Post
Most of the times I don't have enough internet time, and cannot browse all threads, so I thought of a thread where I can post what I eat and drink ( tea!!!! For a coffee- addict). The tea- information is the reason I post here. I like the teadrinkers to see what they can get in Iran. Only one more travelpost to go.

In my cup: Twinings earl grey, that has a slightly sugarry after- taste, though I don't take sugar.

Quote:
Originally Posted by bjones6416 View Post
And because you know we're all here! I don't always look at new threads, but I'm subscribed to this one so I haven't missed any of your posts. Be safe travelling home, and report in when you get there!






A cup of Pu-Erh aged.
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Old 05-19-2011, 03:34 PM   #11520
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