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#226 | |
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#227 |
Onyx-maniac
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#228 |
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Device: kindle paperwhite 7th gen / Inkpalm 5 / Kobo mini
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#229 |
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Isn't just better to buy a eInk phone and have all the functionality it comes with it? Even a second hand one, being the old Yotaphone2 or any Hisense. Don't understand those really small eInk limited devices
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#230 | |
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Device: Kindle Paperwhite 4 (2018)
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#231 | |
Onyx-maniac
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I don't have a Eink phone or any photo sensor to hand. I also don't have anything open right now to scope out the boost voltage. |
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#232 | |
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I thought I saw some slight flicker the other night, but my eyes were incredibly tired so I'm wondering if it was me or the device. |
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#233 |
Resident Curmudgeon
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Does it matter if anything uses PWM if you cannot tell? It doesn't matter as long as you cannot tell.
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#234 |
Still reading
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Location: Ireland
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You can't see properly done PWM. Or hear the audio version (often called Class D) unless it's really poor, like speech or music done by turning the PC speaker on and off.
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#235 |
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PWM
You can use an Opple Light Master to measure the PWM. But as others said the only thing that really matters for an individual is whether the PWM on the device affects you or not. For this reason I've never bothered buying one as I quickly tell whether the PWM is affecting me or not.
The only readers I've ever known marketed as DC-dimming are Hisense. But even though their lighting is probably the lowest risk for uncomfortable PWM, even DC-dimming lighting sometimes uses PWM between steps. Ereaders that don't have negative PWM affects for me: Hisense, old Boox (Poke Pro, Nova 2/3), various Kindles E-ink devices whose PWM lighting is unusably uncomfortable for me: Dasung monitors, newer Boox (Palma, Page, Tab Ultra C, Mira) This will vary across users as different people have different PWM sensitivities. Edit: Boox say their lighting is DC-dimming so maybe it's another issue for me on their devices, or I'm also sensitive to some between DC steps PWM Last edited by rowe; 12-20-2024 at 04:33 AM. |
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#236 | |
Onyx-maniac
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Edit: Nope, I don't have any photodiodes here. I'll see if I can pick one up locally. Last edited by Renate; 12-16-2024 at 07:32 AM. |
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#237 |
Still reading
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Cut top off a metal can transistor (TO18 or TO5, e.g. BC107). That works well.
A reverse biased LED does work as a very poor photo transistor. |
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#238 |
Onyx-maniac
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#239 |
Still reading
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I think the Zener voltage is about 5V on some old LEDs and maybe over 170V on others. Many seem to be 20 to 40V.
I'd connect an LED to a 0 to 30V PSU via 100K, DMM across LED (decent ones are 20 M Ohm) and measure. |
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#240 |
Onyx-maniac
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All the LEDs I threw at it show effectively open circuit at reverse 10 V (12V - 2V) even with a desk lamp on them. The one that didn't was an ultraviolet LED that apparently had already blown through. Blue and UV are the most prone to static.
I'm not allowed to play with over 12 V. ![]() |
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