Aura H2O Screen somehow got broken? Need guidance fixing it!

[ReaLx3m]

Originally Posted by frostschutz

another person who managed to split their front bezel in two. maybe I was lucky but my front bezel stayed as one part and did not split into outer/inner bezel (inner being the shiny one with fins, that is for infrared touchscreen). it's glued outside and inside to the screen itself so you just have to be very careful when removing it.

They are probably not sticking the plectrum deep enough and there is still untouched adhesive on that half on the bezel, or not doing multiple passes so adhesive doesnt get removed good enough.Also in the only video available on youtube dissasembling h20 it isnt shown that there is adhesive on the side of the screen, which also doesnt help with the situation.
When i was first removing my bezel i spent like 30+ minutes on the inside portion of the bezel, being overly carefull, and lifted from one of the top edges carefully adding more pressure and listening for sounds of the glue. When it starts craking even the tiniest bit stop with the pressure and patiently wait till the sound stops , then add some more pressure untill you get a gap on the inside.And its easy after that.
It could be done faster with an exacto knife on the inside, but i didnt want to risk scratching the screen.

Originally Posted by xtine

I re-read my original post and saw that I could adjust the light by running my finger up and down one side of the screen. I tried that last night (with the front bezel in place) and it wouldn't anymore. Hopefully it just means I've exited the book I was reading which is why the light isn't adjustable. We'll find out soon.

Do you have any light at all, maybe the ereader turned off? Which might be a bad thing since in previous post you stated that it has been broken since 2015. If it has been lying around discharged for that long there is a good posibility your battery self-discharged below recoverable level and is dead.
Even if it could be recovered with long charge session, such batteries are considered dangerous for use after the fact.
I wasnt able to find any info on battery size for h20 so in case anyone needs the battery dimensions - 255085(2.5mmT/50mmW/85mmH) just measured yesterday with caliper. 3mm thickness might fit allso(305085) , but dont quote me on that


All this talk about screens been so fragile has been haunting me since i started fiddling with the reader, i got the impression that its of a strength of a pringle potato chip . And yesterday i got to test that...
While fiddling with the light strip, i used a 150gram flashlight to get a better look below which i held with my teeth.I suppose you know where this going.
In the process of figuring the strip, i got a moment of enlightenment and as a reflex i opened my mouth a bit ... Enough for the 150gram(head heavy) flashlight to drop from about 30 centimeters right on the screen(narrow body, so impact was pretty concentrated in one place). Luckily no casualties, cant say that my heart didnt skip a beat. The frontlight disperser thats on the screen sure did help here.

[xtine]

Originally Posted by ReaLx3m

Do you have any light at all, maybe the ereader turned off? Which might be a bad thing since in previous post you stated that it has been broken since 2015. If it has been lying around discharged for that long there is a good posibility your battery self-discharged below recoverable level and is dead.

I was able to get it to turn on and light up, just that I can no longer adjust brightness level when before I could, even with screen already broken.

Question about the adhesive on the bezel, should I remove them? Some parts still have them while some don't, so that it now looks a bit uneven, sticking up in some parts and lying flat in others. (Pic of top view attached.)

[Quoth]

I think it's double sided waterproof tape?
Someone that has done this successfully is likely best to reply. Likely the bezel distance and being level is critical.

[ReaLx3m]

Originally Posted by xtine

I was able to get it to turn on and light up, just that I can no longer adjust brightness level when before I could, even with screen already broken.

Question about the adhesive on the bezel, should I remove them? Some parts still have them while some don't, so that it now looks a bit uneven, sticking up in some parts and lying flat in others. (Pic of top view attached.)

I just scrapped the balls that formed from prying it off with a fingernail, and there is still enough left to hold the bezel and there are no gaps left in mine.
Or you could opt for replacing it alltogether.Iwe read someone using wd40 to remove it clean, but if you dont have some wd40 on hand, plain cooking oil worked for me on sticker residue so it could work for this too, worth a try.Alcohol could work too. But if you go the alcohol route be cautious as alcohol could potentially cloud up the shiny plastic part that reflects the ir beams and could potentially spell trouble.Best would be to first try a small edge and see how the plastic reacts to the alcohol.
And then get some double sided tape.
Quick google with the term from @FrustratedReader - double sided waterproof tape, gave this result.

[Quoth]

Foam sounds wrong.
Anyway without a single piece there would be gaps at the four corners, so probably any regular non-foam tape from a stationary shop etc will do. Random stuff I've bought locally for putting thin alloy panels back on equipment was like the original. I've just no idea if it's waterproof, but on reflection that doesn't matter as it's best to assume the H2O isn't waterproof. My idea of a waterproof case is one that has a clamped neoprene ring in a groove, the door flap is halfway on that. I can't see how an original H2O won't leak between panel and bezel anyway.

[ReaLx3m]

Originally Posted by FrustratedReader

I can't see how an original H2O won't leak between panel and bezel anyway.

It has adhesive there too, so its basically sealed from both sides.

Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk

[xtine]

Thanks for all the inputs, I'll try if I can find waterproof double-sided tape. If not, I might make do with regular double-sided. It's probably safe to assume I won't be able to restore the "waterproof-ness" of my H2O

[Karmylla]

SO, bad news: I got my package yesterday and when I was opening it up today, hoping to get my hands dirty and bring my baby back to life - lo and behold, the screen had a crack.
Uff...
I still tried to see if it worked but of course it didn't.
I'm hoping I can get a refund, or maybe the seller could send me a second product free, but we'll see.

Either way, when opening my kobo after trying out the damaged screen, I noticed the screen wasn't glued to the motherboard, but to the front bezel. Made me wonder if the screen would be touch responsive.

Once I know anything new, I'll be sure to update you all.

[xtine]

Oh no, talk about bad luck. I hope the seller sends you a replacement.

Expecting my screen any day soon now, too. Fingers crossed it comes in one piece.

[xtine]

I just got my replacement screen today. I was horrified to receive a dented box and to open it and find the fragile screen wrapped only in bubble wrap. I was almost sure I was also going to unopen a broken screen. However, this looks ok, right?

Reading through this thread again to check how I should go about my screen replacement. Wish me luck!

[ReaLx3m]

Good luck, and i see it is enticing you to put koreader on your reader with that screenshot after you finish the replacement: )

@karmylla that sucks, hope you get it sorted out and get a replacement.

[xtine]

Originally Posted by ReaLx3m

Good luck, and i see it is enticing you to put koreader on your reader with that screenshot after you finish the replacement: )

@karmylla that sucks, hope you get it sorted out and get a replacement.

I got it to work but I seem to have broken off a small piece of the part on the board where the battery clips to. The H2O turns on when connected to a micro USB cable and the LED's immediately turn off when I unplug the cable. Either the battery is broken or it's not connecting properly because of what I broke.

Even with the cable connected, sometimes the touch screen just stops working (even with the LED's still lighting up) so I'm not really sure what else is wrong.

Screen seems a little washed out especially around the top but I could have lived with it. As of now I'm not sure if purchasing another battery is an option since I'm not sure if it's the battery that's not working or if it's the broken piece on the board itself.

Update: I opened up the reader again and tried reseating the battery clip. It's now turning on without the cable.

Frostschutz also made a really good suggestion of taking pictures as you go which I did. I'll be posting a step by step of what I did soon in case it helps anyone else in the same boat

[ReaLx3m]

Originally Posted by xtine

Update: I opened up the reader again and tried reseating the battery clip. It's now turning on without the cable.

Frostschutz also made a really good suggestion of taking pictures as you go which I did. I'll be posting a step by step of what I did soon in case it helps anyone else in the same boat

Good news , maybe the battery needed a bit of charge.
Send a pic of what component you knocked off the board, someone might have an idea whats the damage.

[xtine]

I've encircled the part with the missing piece that broke off. Thankfully the battery clip was still able to establish a connection despite missing part of the piece keeping it in position

[ReaLx3m]

Originally Posted by xtine

I've encircled the part with the missing piece that broke off. Thankfully the battery clip was still able to establish a connection despite missing part of the piece keeping it in position

I was getting concerned that you knocked off some of the smd components on the board, now that would have been pita to repair.
Good that its only the plastic from the battery connector, as long as pins are there ...