Travel Hub

[scotty1024]

TND you'll need 4 USB ports and a boost regulator to have a true shot of it working.

And if you smoke it, I can personally testify that iRex customer service is slow even when its their fault its broken.

[scotty1024]

TND you can order an assembled boost mode switching regulator from here: http://www.maxim-ic.com/quick_view2.cfm?qv_pk=1761

As delivered it will produce 5V but you solder a resistor onto the back of the board and you can set the voltage to 12V (or whatever). It can provide up to 1A of current. Efficiency is 80% or a bit better. Input voltage range is 2.7V to 5.5V. If you get tired of using it for USB, you can slap a couple D cells on the input and run it that way.

[Mike Kostousov]

Hello!
Can anybody try Casio E125 connector for iLiad?
http://forum.irexnet.com/viewtopic.php?p=2501#2501

[yokos]

I have seen an "iLiad Travel Hub 2007" (32.95 €) in the iRex shop.
I don't know, when this was added to the shop
https://www.irexshop.com/product_inf...4c6bfca4b415cc

[Bert]

Originally Posted by yokos

I have seen an "iLiad Travel Hub 2007" (32.95 €) in the iRex shop.
I don't know, when this was added to the shop
https://www.irexshop.com/product_inf...4c6bfca4b415cc

That's already available quite some time, I ordered (and received) one somewhere at the end of March.
I have to say it's a LOT better than the old one, I've never used it anymore.

[M@rcel]

Because I ran out of money after buying my iLiad I was wondering if it is safe to just use a plain cable to connect the travel hub to the car cigarette lighter? I noticed iRex sells a car adapter in their shop, but the car's 12V (13.8V) DC is within the 9-15V DC range mentioned on the hub and within the 10-18V DC mentioned in the manual.

Something like this??


Maybe the car's power isn't clean enough...??

[M@rcel]

Originally Posted by M@rcel

Because I ran out of money after buying my iLiad I was wondering if it is safe to just use a plain cable to connect the travel hub to the car cigarette lighter? I noticed iRex sells a car adapter in their shop, but the car's 12V (13.8V) DC is within the 9-15V DC range mentioned on the hub and within the 10-18V DC mentioned in the manual.

Something like this??


Maybe the car's power isn't clean enough...??

Anyone?

[digsig]

Yes, you can plug the lLiad (via the travel adapter) direct to a car's 12 volt battery via the cigarette lighter socket. I do it all the time and it has not hurt my iLiad and it charges the iLiad's battery just fine.

Just one word of warning though. I do it when the engine is NOT running. When you start a car or run the engine there can be quite a few voltage spikes across the battery (up to 50 volts) and these could easily hurt your iLiad. Probably the official iLiad accessory has protective circuitry to cater for this.

[janzen]

I can confirm that the Casio E125 connector is fit for the iLiad.

I bought 2 of these, both for power and for USB PC connection.

[Skinny]

Originally Posted by janzen

I can confirm that the Casio E125 connector is fit for the iLiad.

I bought 2 of these, both for power and for USB PC connection.

How did you make the cable connections for Power ? Did you remove the usb end ? which wires did you solder ?

[janzen]

My iLiad came complete with all its cables so I was able the measure with an Ohmmeter the pins of the original connecter that were used for power and data respectively. Then I soldered one new connector to one end of a short piece ( abt 3”) of cable at the other end of which I soldered a female low voltage socket that fits to the male plug of the power adapter. I did the same with a piece of an ordinary USB cable to which I soldered the 2nd connector. Unfortunately I lost my notes of the 20 pin layout of the connectors. Needless to say that you can blow the reader if you make a mistake. I remember I found in my situation some discrepancies with Snoopy ’s layout in post 1 of this thread.

[Skinny]

Originally Posted by janzen

My iLiad came complete with all its cables so I was able the measure with an Ohmmeter the pins of the original connecter that were used for power and data respectively. Then I soldered one new connector to one end of a short piece ( abt 3”) of cable at the other end of which I soldered a female low voltage socket that fits to the male plug of the power adapter. I did the same with a piece of an ordinary USB cable to which I soldered the 2nd connector. Unfortunately I lost my notes of the 20 pin layout of the connectors. Needless to say that you can blow the reader if you make a mistake. I remember I found in my situation some discrepancies with Snoopy ’s layout in post 1 of this thread.

So it is different than the diagram posted here? Any chance you could have a llook / taking readings to let me know correct postion. Also Did you solder to the USB connector or wires after you cut?

[janzen]

Take a look at this picture
[IMG=http://img98.imageshack.us/img98/7579/1000791y.th.jpg][/IMG]

Uploaded with ImageShack.us

I number the pins from left to right 1,2,....19,20.
Now pin1 and 2 are negative
Pins 19 and 20 are positive