Tools Serial Jailbreaking your fw >= 5.6.x Kindle for Dummies - Page 21

Soonerlater · 01-22-2018, 07:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by knc1

Make it:
GND <=> GND
Tx => Rx
Rx <= Tx

I switched the wires so that TX on UART is connected to RX on Kindle; RX on UART is connected to TX on Kindle; left GND connected to GND.

Then pulled battery and USB power then reconnected both to make it reboot. I heard the connection sounds on the connected Windows computer, but there was never any indication of booting on the Putty terminal screen.

I held down the power button on the Kindle and continued to hold it down until (a) I saw four flashes on the Kindle LED, (b) heard the Windows PC make sounds of disconnection, (c) heard the Windows PC make sounds of reconnection -- all before releasing the power button. I still never saw any signs in the Putty terminal window.

I still see the same connection messages in USBview.exe.

I'm stumped.

knc1 · 01-22-2018, 07:54 PM

check your work, use a really good magnifing glass, those are tiny connection points.
try a different ground.
Check the configuration settings of putty (or whatever your using).

If none of that helps -
remove battery <<--
jumper tx-rx (at board end of cable, while still connected to board, no battery!)
Do you see the characters you type echo'd back?
If no - check your work again.

Soonerlater · 01-22-2018, 09:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by knc1

jumper tx-rx (at board end of cable, while still connected to board, no battery!)

>>> at board end of cable
UART board? or Kindle motherboard?

>>> while still connected to board

again... UART or Kindle?

I'm grateful for your help. Please forgive me for being slow on the uptake.

knc1 · 01-23-2018, 12:25 AM

Your trying to test everything that you added, so the Kindle end of the cable, while still connected to the Kindle.
(which is why you do not want the Kindle's battery installed)

Soonerlater · 01-23-2018, 02:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by knc1

Your trying to test everything that you added, so the Kindle end of the cable, while still connected to the Kindle.
(which is why you do not want the Kindle's battery installed)

Yes, when I jumper from RX to TX on the kindle with my UART still connected and with the battery pulled (and no usb power connected), then every thing I type in Putty is echoed back to me. If I remove the jumper, nothing I type is echoed back to me.

Now I'm afraid you're going to tell me that this is good news / bad news. The good news is that I can solder ok. The bad news is that my Kindle is beyond recovery.

knc1 · 01-23-2018, 03:14 PM

recheck the terminal configuration
we know it can talk to itself - however it is set up,
now make it match the kindle's settings

Soonerlater · 01-23-2018, 03:58 PM

This images show how I have the COM3 port configured in Windows and how I have Putty configured. I believe that this matches the instructions of the tutorial.

With USB power disconnected, I pull the battery, count to five, reconnect the battery (but not USB power). No indication of booting in terminal or otherwise. Next I hold the power button down until I get four flashes on the LED. Still no indication of booting.

I know that the power button physically works (as in power connected, power not connected) because holding it down causes the charging LED to flash four times. It's doing something. It's not like the power button is physically broken. However, I can't seem to get this thing to boot up to the point where output should be written to the Terminal screen. Obviously a bricked device never fully boots up (duh), but maybe my Kindle is crapping out so early in the boot that it freezes up before it even gets to the point where characters should be written to the screen.

The only other thing I can think of to try is to pull a battery from another Kindle and see if it makes any difference. But since I check voltages on this battery before (reported previously) I would not expect that to change anything.

Still stumped, but grateful for your help.

Edited to change images.

knc1 · 01-23-2018, 05:04 PM

The power button is connected to a micro-controller, which generates hardwired signals to the other parts (including the led).
That micro-controller is the only thing running.

You now have a spare screen.

Soonerlater · 01-23-2018, 06:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by knc1

You now have a spare screen.

And a spare case! And a USB cable!

I'm the luckiest sumbich in three counties.

coplate · 01-23-2018, 11:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Soonerlater

And a spare case! And a USB cable!

I'm the luckiest sumbich in three counties.

If everything works except the mobo, I was happy with my replacement from powerbookmedic.

It said it would come without special offers, and it came with them, but they gave me a small rebate and I asked amazon nicely if they could move my special offer removal to a new device, since the old one was broken.

Soonerlater · 01-24-2018, 10:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by coplate

If everything works except the mobo, I was happy with my replacement from powerbookmedic.

WOW! I didn't even think to see if anyone sells a just a motherboard. That's a great idea and under $20.

@knc1 given what you know, is there any reason to fear that replacing the motherboard would not resolve my issue? I realize that there's no guarantees, but I have a good screen and a good (I believe) power switch. There doesn't seem to be anything else.

Also... is the plastic case the same for PW Gen 2 and 3? Mine is a 2nd Gen, but the motherboard I can buy is a 3rd. I assume that the layout of points of attachment and size are identical.

jhowell · 01-24-2018, 11:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Soonerlater

Also... is the plastic case the same for PW Gen 2 and 3? Mine is a 2nd Gen, but the motherboard I can buy is a 3rd. I assume that the layout of points of attachment and size are identical.

The PW3 has a higher resolution screen than the PW2. It is unlikely that the motherboards will be interchangeable.

coplate · 01-24-2018, 05:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Soonerlater

WOW! I didn't even think to see if anyone sells a just a motherboard. That's a great idea and under $20.

@knc1 given what you know, is there any reason to fear that replacing the motherboard would not resolve my issue? I realize that there's no guarantees, but I have a good screen and a good (I believe) power switch. There doesn't seem to be anything else.

Also... is the plastic case the same for PW Gen 2 and 3? Mine is a 2nd Gen, but the motherboard I can buy is a 3rd. I assume that the layout of points of attachment and size are identical.

Quote:

Originally Posted by jhowell

The PW3 has a higher resolution screen than the PW2. It is unlikely that the motherboards will be interchangeable.

Like jhowell said, I woudl not try it,

Here is thier page for the PW2 ( 2013 model )
http://www.powerbookmedic.com/xcart1/home.php?cat=802

they have some of the wifi only motherboards and some of the 3g motherboards, under 'without special offers' option.

There are some small differences in the case I think between 3g and wifi-only, so you would want to get what you already had.

knc1 · 01-24-2018, 07:44 PM

Like not having a 3G antenna in the Wifi-only case.
That should be considered a show-stopper.

thesunisup · 01-26-2018, 05:02 PM

So I have tried to jailbreak my kindle pp3 but didn't go as expected

I have opened the front panel (be sure you have the right tools otherwhise you risk to damage your kindle, don't use cheep opening tools)

The problem is, I have destroyed the firmware connectors (rx-tx), I have used an electronic soldering gun and after I have melted the cables on connectors the cables depleted with the connectors on them

(so no more jailbreak for my kindle, don't use an electronic soldering gun but use some plasteline and carefully somehow attach the cables on the connectors, also you won't be able to melt anything on the voltage conector because is unstickable!)

01-23-2018, 03:58 PM	#307
Soonerlater Member Posts: 12 Karma: 10 Join Date: Jan 2018 Device: Kindle Paperwhite	This images show how I have the COM3 port configured in Windows and how I have Putty configured. I believe that this matches the instructions of the tutorial. With USB power disconnected, I pull the battery, count to five, reconnect the battery (but not USB power). No indication of booting in terminal or otherwise. Next I hold the power button down until I get four flashes on the LED. Still no indication of booting. I know that the power button physically works (as in power connected, power not connected) because holding it down causes the charging LED to flash four times. It's doing something. It's not like the power button is physically broken. However, I can't seem to get this thing to boot up to the point where output should be written to the Terminal screen. Obviously a bricked device never fully boots up (duh), but maybe my Kindle is crapping out so early in the boot that it freezes up before it even gets to the point where characters should be written to the screen. The only other thing I can think of to try is to pull a battery from another Kindle and see if it makes any difference. But since I check voltages on this battery before (reported previously) I would not expect that to change anything. Still stumped, but grateful for your help. Edited to change images. Last edited by Soonerlater; 01-23-2018 at 04:04 PM.

01-26-2018, 05:02 PM	#315
thesunisup Junior Member Posts: 6 Karma: 10 Join Date: Jan 2018 Device: pp3	WARNING!!! So I have tried to jailbreak my kindle pp3 but didn't go as expected I have opened the front panel (be sure you have the right tools otherwhise you risk to damage your kindle, don't use cheep opening tools) The problem is, I have destroyed the firmware connectors (rx-tx), I have used an electronic soldering gun and after I have melted the cables on connectors the cables depleted with the connectors on them (so no more jailbreak for my kindle, don't use an electronic soldering gun but use some plasteline and carefully somehow attach the cables on the connectors, also you won't be able to melt anything on the voltage conector because is unstickable!) Last edited by thesunisup; 01-26-2018 at 05:04 PM.

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01-22-2018, 07:54 PM	#302
knc1 Going Viral Posts: 17,212 Karma: 18210809 Join Date: Feb 2012 Location: Central Texas Device: No K1, PW2, KV, KOA	check your work, use a really good magnifing glass, those are tiny connection points. try a different ground. Check the configuration settings of putty (or whatever your using). If none of that helps - remove battery <<-- jumper tx-rx (at board end of cable, while still connected to board, no battery!) Do you see the characters you type echo'd back? If no - check your work again.

01-23-2018, 12:25 AM	#304
knc1 Going Viral Posts: 17,212 Karma: 18210809 Join Date: Feb 2012 Location: Central Texas Device: No K1, PW2, KV, KOA	Your trying to test everything that you added, so the Kindle end of the cable, while still connected to the Kindle. (which is why you do not want the Kindle's battery installed)

01-23-2018, 03:14 PM	#306
knc1 Going Viral Posts: 17,212 Karma: 18210809 Join Date: Feb 2012 Location: Central Texas Device: No K1, PW2, KV, KOA	recheck the terminal configuration we know it can talk to itself - however it is set up, now make it match the kindle's settings

01-23-2018, 05:04 PM	#308
knc1 Going Viral Posts: 17,212 Karma: 18210809 Join Date: Feb 2012 Location: Central Texas Device: No K1, PW2, KV, KOA	The power button is connected to a micro-controller, which generates hardwired signals to the other parts (including the led). That micro-controller is the only thing running. You now have a spare screen.

01-24-2018, 07:44 PM	#314
knc1 Going Viral Posts: 17,212 Karma: 18210809 Join Date: Feb 2012 Location: Central Texas Device: No K1, PW2, KV, KOA	Like not having a 3G antenna in the Wifi-only case. That should be considered a show-stopper.