03-06-2019, 05:47 PM | #16 |
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I've ordered some replacement USB sockets, going to take a few weeks to arrive, more waiting.
In the meantime I'm going to see if I can find a reasonably priced microscope. Would something like this 2MP one be good enough for working on a kindle or do I need to spend a bit more for the 5MP version? https://www.jaycar.com.au/2mp-wi-fi-...stand/p/QC3752 |
03-06-2019, 07:56 PM | #17 |
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I have a very similar device.
When working on a Kindle, there isn't enough distance to the support post to allow you to reach at least halfway on some of the boards. The tablet I was using (Some of the pics posted here where taken with it) had an HDMI output. I hooked that to a 53 inch TV/Monitor. Now that is a lot of magnification. |
03-07-2019, 02:19 AM | #18 | |
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Quote:
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03-17-2019, 07:11 PM | #19 | |
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Quote:
Whatsapp: +905547379324 https://imgyukle.com/i/ZxIAt Last edited by caner4ever; 03-17-2019 at 07:16 PM. Reason: Picture |
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03-17-2019, 09:08 PM | #20 | |
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Quote:
If so, you should offer to hire someone, perhaps from here. Our purpose here is to help the end-user, not the OEM or Refurbisher. |
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03-18-2019, 03:47 AM | #21 | |
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Hello, In Turkey we dont have any customer service for the Amazon products and i can help the users who need technical supports, as part time. i have 6 device same problem , and i want to learn how i can fix this problem . Sorry for my english |
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03-22-2019, 10:21 AM | #22 |
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Hi guys.
I suggest to look around Rohm PMIC BD71815AGW because I have experience with simmilar errors in log and behaviour. Let me explain. I found also KT3s with fast battery drain. Depleted in 2 hours. So I opened it and found out with voltmetr that battery is still almost fully charged (4.09V). After battery reconnection I booted device again to saw that now it shows 85% and the percentage of battery went down as fast as before. Kindle only „thinks“ that voltage goes down.So why fake draining? Connecting to serial line I saw in protocol some coulomb counter errors(and also those mentioned by dom123dom - DEBUG:keypad.c:105:keypad…..) . I booted to bist and tried folowing: Code:
bist > vni batt vol FG voltage =4044mV bist > vni batt temp FG Temperature = 31C bist > vni batt curr FG Current = -1351mA bist > vni batt cap FG Capacity = 85 Percent After replacement of shunt is everything allright. After 2 months there is no fake draining and no more DEBUG:keypad.c….. errors. Second device with fake draining I was playing finished exactly in same point as experienced dom123dom. But I messed it up during soldering and I removed tiny cap next to shunt. I was able finaly to put it on place but something went wrong and it got stuck here: Code:
CPU: Temperature 37 C, calibration data: 0x5a45255f Reset cause: POR FRED::: EXTCSD177=0, 179=48FSL_SDHC: 0, FSL_SDHC: 1, FSL_SDHC: 2 Board: Heisenberg Board Id: P00118xxxxxxxxx S/N: G000K90xxxxxxx I2C: ready DRAM: MR5=0x1,MR6=0x4 512 MiB |
03-30-2019, 12:42 AM | #23 | |
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Quote:
Code:
CPU: Temperature 37 C, calibration data: 0x5a45255f Reset cause: POR FRED::: EXTCSD177=0, 179=48FSL_SDHC: 0, FSL_SDHC: 1, FSL_SDHC: 2 Board: Heisenberg Board Id: P00118xxxxxxxxx S/N: G000K90xxxxxxx I2C: ready DRAM: MR5=0x1,MR6=0x4 512 MiB I have spent a lot of time and effort (and enough money to buy a new kindle!!) replacing the USB connector port and the battery, it has not resolved the charging problem. It was a good experience to learn how to do it but I'm disappointed it didn't fix it! I'm learning slowly...where did you get a replacement shunt from and how do you replace it? Thanks again for sharing your experience. |
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03-31-2019, 10:15 PM | #24 | ||
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Looking at the datasheet here: https://www.rohm.com/datasheet/BD71815AGW
I can see what you mean it talks about: Quote:
Quote:
So should it be 10mΩ or 30mΩ for the Kindle? You mentioned 30 above. Is this the right one? https://www.digikey.com.au/product-d...RCT-ND/2003876 EDIT: With a magnifying glass I can see 030 printed on the chip so I just bought the ones below, I hope they are the right model! MCS1632R030FER - Ohmite - Current Sense Resistor I think this will be very challenging soldering for me, it looks tiny. Last edited by dom123dom; 04-01-2019 at 12:56 AM. |
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04-10-2019, 06:48 AM | #25 |
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Sorry for late reply. It is definitely 30mΩ. I´ve never tried 10mΩ but it should work as well.
Meanwhile I was playing around with another piece with same issue. I tried only to reheat the resistor and it has been working for 13 days till now. I think about 2 possibilities. 1)Change of the resistivity to right value because of the heat(hardly possible but I´m not an expert). 2)"Reset or recalibration" of values in BD71815AGW after soldering. There is significant time gap (5-10min) after soldering. Heat protection I guess. Could be the heat a side effect of values reset in IC? |
04-11-2019, 06:07 AM | #26 | |
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Quote:
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04-11-2019, 06:40 AM | #27 |
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I tried to warm up 030 resistor to remove it, I'm finding it extremely difficult, tried tweezers, tried a small screwdriver to pry off, tried my soldering iron. In the end I set my heat gun to 250 and tried to heat up the solder a lot. Still not really working.
So anyway I warmed it all up and thought i may as well try charger and see what happens. I still get the same boot, it stops at the same point...the output tells me 46 degrees.....but now I have an orange charge light! @Bembela What method did you use to remove the shunt? |
04-11-2019, 07:34 AM | #28 |
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Soldering iron station. It consumes a lot of heat especialy one side of resistor. I tried also heat gun but after that there were black stain on the display. Eink is sensitive to heat. So be careful. I`m using notebook cooling pad to avoid screen damage.
So where are you now?Can you post log? |
04-11-2019, 07:53 AM | #29 | |
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Still same as before (as below), but the difference is now I get an orange charging light which I was not getting before. I've seen a few reports here that leaving the kindle on a long charge on wall charger can fix errors so I'll probably leave it overnight and see if I get a charged battery with green light in the morning (10pm here now).
I also bought a USB charging lead that shows the AMps and volts draw. Do you know what it should be charging at? I'm getting 5.02volts and between 0.27 to 0.3 Amps. Quote:
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04-11-2019, 01:16 PM | #30 |
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and if that does not work, freeze it.
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