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Old 08-10-2017, 11:48 PM   #241
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There is a nice big open space next to the battery, but its not thick enough for the jim.sh board. (Mostly because of the micro-usb port. Might fit if it was a center mount instead of top mounted, but )

that big open spot is where the 3g modem would go.

Here is what I have done with mine. I bought a dip socket, and glued it onto the back case.

Then I ran the wires from the serial port to the back case, and "folded' them up so its like a zig zag, so I have room to take the case off.

What you could do instead of gluing to the back case is to glue it to that open ares, and just have a bid of an opening around it for the back case to settle in onto.

Teh metal plate there is probably conductive though, so make sure its on some electrical or polyamide tape. if it fits.

Then my jim.sh I soldered the pin headers to, and I can just slot it into the case when I need it.

Click image for larger version

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Full size to zoom in: http://imgur.com/87DLfVE

Last edited by coplate; 08-10-2017 at 11:52 PM.
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Old 08-10-2017, 11:52 PM   #242
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Yeah, the voyage has almost NO unused retail space. The back plate rests flush against the battery, which is about as thin as a micro-usb connector in the first place (the connector alone).
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Old 08-10-2017, 11:55 PM   #243
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Yeah, the voyage has almost NO unused retail space. The back plate rests flush against the battery, which is about as thin as a micro-usb connector in the first place (the connector alone).
yeah, these dip sockets arent terribly thick though, look at this guy that you can cut down to 4 pins.

https://www.amazon.com/FISCHER-ELEKT...dp/B018CQLXTU/

these guys were a lot cheaper at my microcenter, they have a ton of hobby parts like this, then amazon.

Last edited by coplate; 08-10-2017 at 11:57 PM.
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Old 08-11-2017, 12:00 AM   #244
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I lived there from 2012-2014. Did communication work in the oilfield. (Fancy way of saying I set up satellite internet so the guys running the rigs could send reports and watch porn).
Oilfield workers watch p***. I am shocked. I thought they were all good boys.
Oh and if you believe that, I will sell you a beach on the Imperial highway.
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Old 08-11-2017, 12:12 AM   #245
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The voyage is going to have the 1.8v pin somewhere else too.

This image shows something labeled 1v8 under the pink box, which looks to be avialable even before they removed the shields. On the back that one appears to be the 'MCU_1v8 pin"

https://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/Kind...Teardown/32278 step 11
https://d3nevzfk7ii3be.cloudfront.ne...AAVZXCAkQ.huge


The back of the voyage board looks better labeled, you can see UART_RX and UART_TX here

https://d3nevzfk7ii3be.cloudfront.ne...F6aXWTH1Q.huge ( but even the thinnest wires are too thick to put under the board and screw it back down. and any solder would be way to thick.

Last edited by coplate; 08-11-2017 at 12:15 AM.
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Old 08-11-2017, 12:14 AM   #246
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yeah, these dip sockets arent terribly thick though, look at this guy that you can cut down to 4 pins.

https://www.amazon.com/FISCHER-ELEKT...dp/B018CQLXTU/

these guys were a lot cheaper at my microcenter, they have a ton of hobby parts like this, then amazon.
Ah yeah those would probably fit in the space fine, especially if the intention is to have it nestled though the back cover so you can pop the adapter board right into them when needed.

First image shows where I was originally planning to try and put it (roughly), and in the second you can get an idea of how little space is there between the back of the display and the case itself (the back cover rests flush against that silver pad, might even depress it slightly).
Attached Thumbnails
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ID:	158368   Click image for larger version

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ID:	158369  
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Old 08-11-2017, 12:20 AM   #247
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The back of the voyage board looks better labeled, you can see UART_RX and UART_TX here

https://d3nevzfk7ii3be.cloudfront.ne...F6aXWTH1Q.huge ( but even the thinnest wires are too thick to put under the board and screw it back down. and any solder would be way to thick.
Considering the back of the board rests flush against the back of the e-ink display, I would say that is probably correct lol.
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Old 08-11-2017, 12:21 AM   #248
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Ah yeah those would probably fit in the space fine, especially if the intention is to have it nestled though the back cover so you can pop the adapter board right into them when needed.

First image shows where I was originally planning to try and put it (roughly), and in the second you can get an idea of how little space is there between the back of the display and the case itself (the back cover rests flush against that silver pad, might even depress it slightly).
That bottom left corner migt be an option, if you were ok with cutting a slot for the usb plug to sit in in the top cover as well.

like this:Click image for larger version

Name:	usb.png
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ID:	158370

So from the back, you would have exposed the whole metal bits of the usb, the case cut away there to make room for it.

like this:
Click image for larger version

Name:	hole.png
Views:	200
Size:	224.7 KB
ID:	158371

Last edited by coplate; 08-11-2017 at 12:26 AM.
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Old 08-11-2017, 12:26 AM   #249
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That bottom left corner migt be an option, if you were ok with cutting a slot for the usb plug to sit in in the top cover as well.

like this:Attachment 158370
Pretty sure if I start cutting into the grey there I will be destroying the e-ink display itself (or at least part of the circuitry that controls it.)
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Old 08-11-2017, 12:27 AM   #250
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Pretty sure if I start cutting into the grey there I will be destroying the e-ink display itself (or at least part of the circuitry that controls it.)
yeah, thats why I think you would have to have the usb plug part come all the way up through the back case, I added an extra picture.
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Old 08-11-2017, 12:29 AM   #251
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yeah, thats why I think you would have to have the usb plug part come all the way up through the back case, I added an extra picture.
Was aiming to avoid altering the facing of the device at all though. I am perfectly fine with having to pop the top bar off and remove a couple of screws to get to my serial port.

From what I'm seeing, a mid-mounted micro usb would PROBABLY have fit behind the back plate in that empty 3g radio bay, but oh well.

Atm though I am trying to find a relatively cheap source for solid-core awg 30 wire and not having much luck. The implosion of radio shack has severely limited my local electrical engineering supply options. Nearest MicroCenter is a 3 hour drive to downtown Dallas, so I might end up postponing this till the end of the month when I take my grandfather back there for his next VA appointment.

Also debating if I'd rather spend ~$12 on graphite and acrylic ink that gets shipped from Amazon, or just drive down the street to auto-zone and pay $15 for the defogger repair paint.

Last edited by Aroth; 08-11-2017 at 12:34 AM.
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Old 08-11-2017, 07:10 AM   #252
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Say what? Has Walmart abandoned East Texas?
If China makes it, Walmart carries it.
Check the Arts and Crafts section for everything I used.

Why not get the cheapest, smallest, soldering iron possible locally + a light dimmer?
When done with the three connections, throw the solder iron away and put the light dimmer to work in place of a wall switch somewhere in the house.

If the tip is too big, find a scrap of #12 or #14 solid wire, wrap tip with one end of wire sticking out, call that end of the wire a 'micro-tip'.

Give the problem a little thought, I am sure you will think of something that you feel is a suitable solution.
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Old 08-11-2017, 09:24 AM   #253
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Say what? Has Walmart abandoned East Texas?
If China makes it, Walmart carries it.
Check the Arts and Crafts section for everything I used.

Why not get the cheapest, smallest, soldering iron possible locally + a light dimmer?
When done with the three connections, throw the solder iron away and put the light dimmer to work in place of a wall switch somewhere in the house.

If the tip is too big, find a scrap of #12 or #14 solid wire, wrap tip with one end of wire sticking out, call that end of the wire a 'micro-tip'.

Give the problem a little thought, I am sure you will think of something that you feel is a suitable solution.
Lol they haven't abandoned us yet, but they definitely do not carry the full range of goods you might see at a big city like Dallas or San Antonio.

As for buying a soldering iron locally, I haven't seen one in the local walmart or lowes/home depot, and the closest "electronics" stores are in Dallas (~3 hour drive)
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Old 08-11-2017, 09:42 AM   #254
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Isn't Canton closer?
Canton is a "collage town" - you should find a better selection of misc. stuffs.
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Old 08-11-2017, 09:54 AM   #255
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Last time I went through Canton it was pretty empty. I know the closest Radio Shack is in Louisiana (outside Shreveport, and the nearest one in Dallas is only about ~15mi further away). Closest Micro Center is in Dallas, closest Fry's is in Dallas.

If walmart doesn't have the graphite and paint or ink, I am pretty sure I can get it at Hobby Lobby in Longview, but if I am not already going to Longview for something else, I'd just as soon pay the extra $3 for the repair kit then make the 2 hour round trip to Hobby Lobby.

Currently scrounging through old electronics and wires for wires that are small enough AND solid core. Keep finding stranded-core stuff .

Thinking I can use a 4-pin female dupont jumper connector on the end of the wires and fold them up inside the case (where the 3g radio would have been), then solder a corresponding set of header pins to the adapter board and store it when not in use.
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