Tools Serial Jailbreaking your fw >= 5.6.x Kindle for Dummies

[Aroth]

Originally Posted by Cinisajoy

I know exactly where you are. I have been all around that area.

Now as to that soldering iron, yes you want a very fine tip. Motherboards are tiny.

Lol any particular reason for asking, or just curious?

Also, you think the one I linked would be sufficient?

Apparently the board came in today (hadn't checked the mail yet), and unfortunately the Voyage has so little free space in it that its likely not possible to permanently mount/store the adapter. It MIGHT be possible to leave it in the open space that remains if you remove the weird RFID/NFC/whatever chip that is near the top, but that also removes the top magnet for the cover

[Cinisajoy]

Well I guess I should have asked Quitman, Overton or New London.
My family is from that area so curiosity more than anything. I am out in Odessa.

As to the iron, it should work but let's ask the resident expert @knc1.

[Aroth]

Originally Posted by Cinisajoy

Well I guess I should have asked Quitman, Overton or New London.
My family is from that area so curiosity more than anything. I am out in Odessa.

As to the iron, it should work but let's ask the resident expert @knc1.

Funny story, I lived out in Midland until about 3 and a half years ago.

As for hitting the pads, if I can't store the board inside the case of the device, it's kinda pointless to risk soldering to those tiny pads, so...

[knc1]

As far as we know at this point, there is no way short of hardware failure, to get the device to boot the 'diags' system without using the serial port.

So from the start of the first post, up to and including the direction to enter at the u-boot command:
bootm 0xE41000
the tutorial is usable.

But once the 'diags' system boots - -
Well, you might as well delete the part of this thread that follows that step.

It is too early to say if that is a good thing or a bad thing.

[Aroth]

Any input on if the soldering iron I linked would be a decent replacement for the rusted mess I have now (and/or if it would be sufficient for hitting the tiny pads?)

[knc1]

Originally Posted by Cinisajoy

- - - -
As to the iron, it should work but let's ask the resident expert @knc1.

The smallest point (0.2mm, 10degree angle) is small enough and slim enough
But the soldering iron is too large, too high power, and the lowest controlled temperature setting is too hot.

Use the description of this one when shopping for an appropriate size and type of soldering iron:
http://www.electroncomponents.com/12...ed-Temperature
(That one is about 9USD.)
(And it is adjustable temperature not controlled temperature - a point that probably got lost in the translation.)

[Aroth]

Originally Posted by knc1

The smallest point (0.2mm, 10degree angle) is small enough and slim enough
But the soldering iron is too large, too high power, and the lowest controlled temperature setting is too hot.

Use the description of this one when shopping for an appropriate size and type of soldering iron:
http://www.electroncomponents.com/12...ed-Temperature
(That one is about 9USD.)
(And it is adjustable temperature not controlled temperature - a point that probably got lost in the translation.)

It's also about $40 in shipping from India. Looking at soldering stations that allow that level of temperature control (dropping below 200C in general), I'm not seeing many options below ~$25-$40, and they quickly start climbing into triple digits.

Oh well, a permanent install can't happen anyways because of the lack of usable space on my device so I'll probably just get the one I saw on amazon as a general purpose iron and figure out a no-solder method of connecting.

[knc1]

Originally Posted by Aroth

It's also about $40 in shipping from India. Looking at soldering stations that allow that level of temperature control (dropping below 200C in general), I'm not seeing many options below ~$25-$40, and they quickly start climbing into triple digits.

Oh well, a permanent install can't happen anyways because of the lack of usable space on my device so I'll probably just get the one I saw on amazon as a general purpose iron and figure out a no-solder method of connecting.

My DIY conductive paint does not have to be temporary.
And it does not take a very big hole in the case to run three 30guage wires out of it.
Just tape them flat to the back when not connected to an external adapter.

[Cinisajoy]

Originally Posted by Aroth

Funny story, I lived out in Midland until about 3 and a half years ago.

As for hitting the pads, if I can't store the board inside the case of the device, it's kinda pointless to risk soldering to those tiny pads, so...

I lived in Midland from 1991-2002.
Hi I'm Cindy.

[Aroth]

Originally Posted by knc1

My DIY conductive paint does not have to be temporary.
And it does not take a very big hole in the case to run three 30guage wires out of it.
Just tape them flat to the back when not connected to an external adapter.

Was looking for something cleaner like just taping the board itself to an open space inside the case, so when I needed to access the serial port I could just open it up and pull out the board. There is a nice big open space next to the battery, but its not thick enough for the jim.sh board. (Mostly because of the micro-usb port. Might fit if it was a center mount instead of top mounted, but )

I might look into capping the wires with a connector that I can plug into a matching one coming of the adapter board. Might be enough room for something like that.

The conductive paint is that stuff they use to repair window defrosters on cars right? Can buy it at an automotive shop? Thinking you place the wire on the pad, put a drop of the paint to cover both and then maybe use an epoxy or even hot glue to seal it?

[Aroth]

Originally Posted by Cinisajoy

I lived in Midland from 1991-2002.
Hi I'm Cindy.

I lived there from 2012-2014. Did communication work in the oilfield. (Fancy way of saying I set up satellite internet so the guys running the rigs could send reports and watch porn).

[coplate]

Originally Posted by Aroth

Broken as in it doesn't work anymore and we are screwed, or broken as in its not needed anymore? (either way, brb making sure my kindle's wifi is disconnected).

The instruction have these steps once you boot into diags:

When the diags menu displays, type "d"
On the next menu type "l" ("L")
finally, type "q"

Here is what worked on my kindle instead. Bold is what I have typed.

uboot > bootm 0xe41000
## Booting kernel from Legacy Image at 80800000 ...
   Image Name:   Linux-3.0.35-lab126
<<snip>>
[   11.884393] EXT3-fs (mmcblk0p2): using internal journal
sock_init 1888

diag>?
get_input_from_stdin Received [?]
diag>   MUSCAT_WFO - System Diags -  96
   ~~~~  1.1.23.266370  ~~~~
     pcbId:06702091528202NI
(DS INFO)-Device Setting
(TOUCH PLATE)-Touch Plate Test
(OTS)-Operator test suite
(o)-Misc individual diagnostics
(WIFI NART)-nART factory test
(USB EXPORT)-USB device mode
(o)-Reboot or Disable Diags
(POWER SUSPEND)-Lock screen
(X)-Exit


exit
get_input_from_stdin Received [EXIT]
diag>   EXIT : command not found
        Usage:
        EXIT DISABLE
        EXIT FASTBOOT
        EXIT LOGIN
        EXIT REBOOT
        EXIT WEB
exit login
get_input_from_stdin Received [EXIT LOGIN]
diag>ls: /var/local/log/messages_*.gz: No such file or directory
EXIT LOGIN: RESULT <PASS>
sock_close Sock close
Waiting to stop
Closing /dev/input/event0
Closing /dev/input/event1
Closing server_socket
Stopped
Exit to login prompt: 1
/etc/init.d/rcS: line 121: boot_milestone: not found
starting pid 1180, tty '': '/bin/sh /etc/getty-diags'



Welcome to Kindle!

[192_168_15_244] login: root
Password:

Note that it does not show the 'diag>' prompt after printing the output. It seems to write that before putting the output of the command you jsut ran, so just go ahead and run the next one when it looks right.

[knc1]

Originally Posted by Aroth

- - - - -
The conductive paint is that stuff they use to repair window defrosters on cars right? Can buy it at an automotive shop? Thinking you place the wire on the pad, put a drop of the paint to cover both and then maybe use an epoxy or even hot glue to seal it?

DIY :: "Do It Yourself"
Does not mean: "Buy it from somewhere".

[coplate]

I used a radio shack special on mine, but I did ruin the first motherboard, pulling pads off the pcb.

How does this one look, it says it has control down to 200

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06WLHQSH5. Or what temp would you recommend?

I didnt think 60/40 melted till about 200.

[Aroth]

Originally Posted by knc1

DIY :: "Do It Yourself"
Does not mean: "Buy it from somewhere".

This thread?

https://www.mobileread.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=264766