novaAir firmware 3.2.3 root problem

[nivieru]

I tried rooting the new firmware on the novaAir using the magisk method described here.
This method worked well for me with previous firmware versions, but this time when I'm fastbooting the pathed image

fastboot boot magisk_patched-#####.img

I only get the boot animation in a loop.
Does anyone have an idea of what could go wrong and how to fix it? or a different rooting method?
Thanks

[Renate]

Do you still have ADB when it's running the boot animation?
Look at logcat, it may tell you something.

Have you tried fastboot boot your last Magisk image?

If you have copies of everything you might try flashing to boot and restarting.
There have been times when I've been unable to get fastboot boot to work but flashing and restarting worked.

It's always best to be over-prepared, copies of everything, conversant with EDL, a recovery with ADB root...

We are talking about Nova Air (not 2)? What processor does that have?

[nivieru]

Sadly there's no ADB during the boot animation, and the older magisk images don't work as well.
this is novaAir, with Snapdragon 636, not 2
Is there a guide on how to install a recovery with adb root? or backup with edl? I'm not very familiar with it
Thanks

[Renate]

If you can get to fastboot you can reflash the copy of the stock boot.img you pulled off to magisk. That will give you more info on what's up. As I said, I can't put my finger on it, but when fastboot boot doesn't work, I always just flash. That goes for recovery too. Since your Nova doesn't have A/B you can flash /misc with "boot-recovery" so as to boot into recovery.

What do you have for stuff? The latest boot image? Post it and I'll try to make you a recovery.

Just to clear up why you'd want to do what:
fastboot: you can write or erase partitions, but not read them
EDL: you can read, write, erase partitions
Rooted recovery: you can read, write, erase partitions and with the right recovery you can install an update.zip

You can get to EDL from a working adb: "reboot edl".
You might be able to get there with an "EDL cable", search on ebay. (I've never gotten a cable to work.)
In drastic cases you can open your device and reset while shorting the special EDL test points. (I put a magnetic switch in my Poke3 so that I never have to open it again.)
Going into to EDL is not dangerous, as long as you don't do anything!

[nivieru]

Thanks for the help! I attached the boot image, I also have the update.upx if it helps in any way.
So I understand that, since I can't get adb, fastboot, or edl during the boot animation, if I flash the image and get the same result I will need to open up the case and find the edl test points, and than reflash the original boot image through edl, right? Might try to do that first, just to make sure I can get into edl

[Renate]

Well, I wouldn't be too quick to open it up (depending on how well it's stuck together and your unstucking skills).
If fastboot boot novaAir_boot_img_3_2_3 runs, that tells you something.
If fastboot flash boot novaAir_boot_img_3_2_3 runs, that tells you something.

Edi: I got confused with all this NovaNoteNota123C stuff.
I had done a recovery for the Nova Air.
I just updated it with the 3.2.3 kernel

Sorry, my connection stinks, I'll try to upload later.
This is just the misc to get to recovery, don't flash it now.
The 20 MB recovery is coming.
These files are named prc so that I can upload, just rename them.

C:\>fastboot flash recovery narec.img
C:\>fastboot flash misc misc-rec
<long button reset>

You'll get a white screen, but it should have rooted ADB.
If you want the normal recovery screen, just "start recovery".
Just for fun, "start ttyscreen", you should get a short text on screen.

[nivieru]

Well, I tried that.
Now I just get a white screen, no ADB or anything
Complete brick, I guess it's time to disassemble.

Edit - disassembled, any idea which are the edl test points?

[Renate]

Originally Posted by nivieru

Well, I tried that.
Now I just get a white screen, no ADB or anything.

And you had ADB working fine before with drivers and everything?
When you disconnect the USB cable and then reconnect does Windows go "bong"?

When you want to get out of trying recovery you can fastboot erase misc.

Do you have: A voltmeter? Any resistors 100 to 3000 ohms? A USB UART adapter?

I'm sorry to say that nothing looks that conspicuous on the board.
Is there something on the back cover that receives those 3 springs?
If there is nothing on the back cover it could be UART test points, but that seems unusual.
You might try a photo of just the board on the left. Maybe two separate photos.
I wouldn't go around indiscriminately shorting any points, you could do damage.
OTOH, if you have a voltmeter you can measure the voltage on the points in the photo versus ground (like the tin shields).

Edit: I'm thinking those springs are to another antenna on the back cover.

[nivieru]

ADB was working fine before.
linux doesn't see anything connected to the usb.
I have a multimeter.
The springs are for the cover-buttons connector on the back cover.
Also I can't turn off the device - short press doesn't do anything, long press reboots to this state.
Edit - added photo

[Renate]

Can you still get to fastboot? If you can, "fastboot erase misc".

Can you measure voltages on the two "maybe?" points.
Maybe one is 1.8V and the other is smallish 0.2V but not 0.000?

Are the "tin cans" one part, soldered to the board or are they a soldered-in base and a top that snaps on with little "dimples".

Do you have resistors?

If it won't turn off, keep this charged.

[nivieru]

The "maybe" points are both at 1.8V, with about 30mV between them
The tin cans are not soldered, look removable.
I don't have resistors, and can't get into fastboot either.

Edit - added photo with tin cans removed

[Renate]

Grrr, can't get into Fastboot isn't good.

Check the two pairs of red dots for same 1.8/0.2 criteria.
Look at the triple red dot for 1.8V/???/0.000.
Oops, I forgot, my Poke3 (SDM636) has 1.8V UART (for the triple)

[nivieru]

Theses are the measured voltages, no 0.2V,
The one labeled in red is a little higher than the others, by about 20-30mV

[Renate]

Do you solder? Do you have some electronic junk?
Can you find a 300-1000 ohm resistor and solder some wires to it so that you could use it?
If you find a resistor, you can try doing a reset with the resistor between the 1.8V and 0V in the middle. If you have enough hands/test clips you can see when you use the resistor whether the 1.8V goes down or the 0V goes up. (The 0V should go up to 1.8V)
(You can do that measurement without doing the reset. Of course you need to do the reset to actually see if it will work.)

Have you already checked if an EDL cable works? I've never had any luck, but maybe if your Nova Air does not have analog audio over Type C it could work.

I presume that you don't have an oscilloscope.
A USB UART would be great, but you need a 1.8V one, not the typical 3.3V one.
If you do decide that you want one, this looks pretty good:
https://www.amazon.com/jim-sh-Micro1.../dp/B076B9YRMP
I'm not guaranteeing that we're going to find the hardware console and that you can use the UART.

If we can't find the EDL point, we're going to have to try to prevent the SoC from reading the flash so that it throws up its hands and goes to EDL. I've gotten my Moto E6 to EDL that way.

Edit: Actually, this is kind of cuter and works on 4 different voltage levels.
https://www.amazon.com/DSD-TECH-SH-U...dp/B07WX2DSVB/
Don't buy anything with Prolific 2303 in it. Buy from reputable supplier of FTDI.

[nivieru]

I'll try to find/make an edl cable. If that doesn't work I think I'll try the warranty, though at my old lab they probably have some resistors and even oscilloscopes so I can say hi and try that as well.