Tools Serial Jailbreaking your fw >= 5.6.x Kindle for Dummies

[Cinisajoy]

I am going to message you as I have a couple of questions about Aspie and do not want to derail this thread any farther.

[geekmaster]

Originally Posted by Cinisajoy

I am going to message you as I have a couple of questions about Aspie and do not want to derail this thread any farther.

Threads are mere artificial constructs, and considering that eschwartz has admitted to being aspie too, I think we are safe.

Besides, all it takes to get back on the rails is a post about serial jailbreaking, so no harm done other than this off-topic conversation disappearing into the middle of what will probably become a much longer thread than it is now...

[knc1]

Originally Posted by bonacker

Thanks!

Sometimes, with the best of intentions, a poster will post something that at one time was accurate information, but unbeknownst to the well-meaning poster, no longer works. That's why I was double checking.

Or, you could have found out for yourself -
a little searching here would turn up the reports from people of the firmware versions it has been tested on (upto and including 5.7.x).

Of my 10,000+ (technical) posts, a very high percentage of them are accurate.
And when I make a mistake, others here are quick to make a correction.

So if you need confirmation - always search the recent postings.

[Galunid]

I've got some more questions about https://www.pololu.com/product/1308
Why are there two RX and TX?
Should any of the other pins be connected to something other than in the guide?
And where does the converter board get the power from? Is it from PC, or from Kindle?
Does it affects kindle's battery in any way? Thanks for any help!

[knc1]

Originally Posted by Galunid

I've got some more questions about https://www.pololu.com/product/1308
Why are there two RX and TX?
Should any of the other pins be connected to something other than in the guide?
And where does the converter board get the power from? Is it from PC, or from Kindle?
Does it affects kindle's battery in any way? Thanks for any help!

Convenience
They are the same signals, just the physical layout matches two common pinouts.

What guide?

You only need Tx, Rx, Gnd and the reference input - **AFTER** you make the modification to board described at the linked-to page.

Read (and follow) the "Using a different VIO" section of the page.

(You do not mention what model Kindle, so I am assuming you mean one of the touch-screen models - which are 1.8v I/O).

The USB cable.

No.

[Galunid]

Answers to the questions:
Guide - this topic
Kindle paperwhite 2(2013)
One more question about the word "cutting" in the section "Using a different VIO". How can I cut it? I know this is a stupid question, but better to be sure, than mistaken.

[knc1]

Originally Posted by Galunid

Answers to the questions:
Guide - this topic
Kindle paperwhite 2(2013)
One more question about the word "cutting" in the section "Using a different VIO". How can I cut it? I know this is a stupid question, but better to be sure, than mistaken.

Single edged razor blade.

You only cut the trace, not the entire board.

If not practiced in hot soldering, in this thread are links to connection methods that do not require soldering.

[dashWo]

Interestingly, when entering Diags on a new PW3 running 5.6.5, instead of the Diags menu appearing in putty, it instead shows up on the PW touch screen. The menu is touch capable and one can select the same options that the walkthrough dictates.

Main menu in Diags


After selection of Reboot or Disable Diags

[Image violates Posting Guidelines for size - MODERATOR]

Putty screencap from same time.
[Image violates Posting Guidelines for size - MODERATOR]

[knc1]

Been that way for quite some time.

[TheNeedforRead]

Hi guys, I've gathered all required tools and will be pressing ahead with the JB tonight, having ordered the serial board, some additional thin wire, as well as the electrical paint recommended by knc1.

As mentioned previously I'll be employing the pin technique described by stupidhaiku.

How should I use the electrical paint in this process?

[knc1]

Originally Posted by TheNeedforRead

Hi guys, I've gathered all required tools and will be pressing ahead with the JB tonight, having ordered the serial board, some additional thin wire, as well as the electrical paint recommended by knc1.

As mentioned previously I'll be employing the pin technique described by stupidhaiku.

How should I use the electrical paint in this process?

I am sorry, I missed that you where going to use the "pin technique".
The "pin technique" is very fragile, and is intended to only work long enough to enter the commands required.

Now you have an alternative -

Secure the fine wire to the board (glue, tape, etc) with the stripped ends on the connection dots -
Complete the connection with a bit of conductive paint over the wire/connection point pairs.
(If you miss the spot - the paint can be wiped off before it dries)

This can be a much more durable connection to the board -
and the loose ends of the tiny wires can be fold back and kept in the case for future use (say, tape flat against the battery or store under the antenna cover plate).

[geekmaster]

As mentioned before, for "solder-shy" folks (and the delicate pads DO lift off with too much heat for too long), you can get conductive paint suitable for this purpose at most auto parts stores (sold as "window defogger repair kit").

I used a similar product to repair an external computer keyboard after spilled coffee disolved some of the conductive traces on flex cable inside the keyboard. Painting over the gaps in the traces fixed it. Interesting that the traces on that particular ribbon cable were coffee-soluble...

Such a product should work just fine for kindle serial pad connections, just as knc1 mentioned (but no need to special order it when a local auto parts store carries a suitable product).

[knc1]

No need to buy special paint - not after reading my thread on how to mix your own.

[TheNeedforRead]

Thanks knc1.

Everything goes perfectly to the end of Step 3.

I am stuck on Step 4.

1. Get into the diagnostics boot
Turn on your kindle, and watch the blank putty window you have open.
As soon as text starts appearing in the window, begin tapping keys on your keyboard.

For me, the Putty window stays totally blank.

Notes:

-By step 4 the Kindle is attached in 'USB Drive mode' according to the screen, and attempts to power it on by pressing the power button have no effect.

-Since I can't physically access the Kindle screen to attempt a screen reboot (it is face down on a glass table, and is impossible to move without shifting the pins), I have tried repeatedly rebooting by holding the power button

-On the first two attempts I left the kindle attached by it's micro-usb, since the instructions to eject it don't appear at this step. Just in case, on 3rd and 4th tries I attempted to boot with micro usb detached.

I believe I have followed all preceding steps very carefully. To describe the steps I have completed is to describe the steps instructed... but of course I have perhaps overlooked something.

I have started from scratch four times. I am confident that the serial/board connections are sound because I am able to obtain the 'fionaxxx' password each time via Python.
(edit: perhaps, if TX is transmission and RX is receiving, the TX pin is loose. checking now..)

[geekmaster]

The kindle Tx cannot sink enough current to light an LED if your TTL serial adapter has an LED on that line. It prevents the kindle from sending a logic zero. See my level shifter circuit thread.