Why can't I read on my Kindle while continuing to charge over USB?

[Dwayne_Matheson]

Originally Posted by Tiersten

The way you eject the Kindle depends on whether its Windows or Mac and the specific version of Windows if you're running Windows.

If it is Vista or 7 then you have to eject the Kindle "drive" from Computer.
If it is XP then you go to Safely remove hardware in the notification area and eject it from there.

The Kindle user guide mentions it in section 8.1

+1 for reading the manual! If only more people would read the manual before posting for help on the forum, but then again, it is easier to ask for help than reading a manual!

[cjottawa]

If you're on a Windows machine, there's a VERY handy little freeware app that will make your life easier: USB Disk Ejector. http://quick.mixnmojo.com/usb-disk-ejector

[monkeyluis]

Chrage via the wall. It's faster.

[TomF]

Originally Posted by cjottawa

If you're on a Windows machine, there's a VERY handy little freeware app that will make your life easier: USB Disk Ejector.

This program doesn't work with the Kindle on a Vista machine and probably not for Windows 7 (same basic architecture). It doesn't seem to do anything more than the Windows "Safely Eject..." icon in the system tray.

No one has mentioned that this was also a problem with the Kindle 2. It is a long-known problem that occurs on Windows Vista and Windows 7 computers. In earlier discussions about this months ago the Kindle support team has supposedly said that "they're working on it". When the Kindle 3 was released and had the same problem it was pretty obvious that they weren't. Instead we got the Facebook/Twitter interface.

[curstpriest]

My computer -> Select drive that resembles kindle -> Eject (only way)
DO NO USE SAFELY REMOVE HARDWARE

Originally Posted by monkeyluis

Chrage via the wall. It's faster.

How is this so?

All the wall charger is, is a ac to dc transformer that outputs 4.9v dc.

Last I checked the 5v rail on my PC worked just dandy.
Do you have a shitty power supply, or did you destroy your 5v rail somehow?

Here is mine, you can use free tool hwmonitor to check it.


Some laptops and certain budget pcs have settings to disable the 5v rail or put the computer in "power save" mode. Disable this mode in the bios/windows to enable USB power. May be marked in the bios erroneously also on some machines as "allow USB devices to wake this PC from sleep mode"

Else use a multimeter to check your 5v rail and make sure it's outputting enough voltage.

You should be able to charge your kindle/ipod/any usb device even while your computer is off. The power supply (if it's on) still supplies power to the motherboard, and over the 5v rail, so your USB gets power.

You can also charge stuff with other devices that have usb ports (but don't overload small devices like routers) I use my comcast HDMI set top box (it has 3 USB ports, and also my 60 in LCD tv (it has 2 USB ports) to charge my kindle and my ipods.

[DiapDealer]

You can also charge stuff with other devices that have usb ports (but don't overload small devices like routers) I use my comcast HDMI set top box (it has 3 USB ports, and also my 60 in LCD tv (it has 2 USB ports) to charge my kindle and my ipods.

But why would I, as long as I have a wall outlet is free? Plus the outlet is closer to my favorite reading chair than any appliance with a USB port is.

[curstpriest]

I keep my ipod/kindle/digital camera (all of which are powered and charged by USB) in an entertainment cabinet when not in use. They are all battery operated, so I don't need to charge them when not in use. So when I put them away (they are stored in the media cabinet, with my TV/xbox/cableSTB/devices with USB/ that closes, they get to charge). Why charge kindle while using it? The port is at the bottom and puts pressure on the device while you use it (horrible design). Or maby that's just the DXG that does that, since its so heavy that you have to rest it on something. Still makes no sense that the USB port isn't at the top where the headphone jack is. Still, I never charge it while using it, that would be silly.

[emalvick]

FYI,

Charging via the wall adapter is faster because the current is higher through the wall charger. A USB port on a computer runs 0.5 A while the wall one runs 0.8 A (or possibly higher). The Kindle is designed to handle 0.8 A of current, so it works well (the voltage doesn't matter here). It does make a siginificant difference in the charging time. I find that via the wall charger, my K3 charges in less than 2 hours while it takes closer to 4 hours on my computer.

[DiapDealer]

Still, I never charge it while using it, that would be silly.

I don't like to, but I'm certainly not going to quit reading because of something silly like a low battery. So I reach down for the cord beside my chair, plug it in and keep reading. Why not?

[curstpriest]

You're right the kindle charger is 800ma. USB spec is 500ma, so it will be slower. Still, the kindle battery should be able to take twice that of the stock charger.

I have an OLED camera charger that outputs 1a at 5v, which would probably work even better, but not about to try.

The DX I have lasts over 60 hours with 3G and TTS off, and takes only a few hours to charge, so like I said before, if you charge it at night, you shouldn't have to ever need to charge it while reading. Though if you like to surf the net??? While also reading with TTS on, I suppose you will need to charge it if that's your thing.

Still thing USB port should be on the top/top corners, not on the bottom of the unit!

[Tiersten]

Originally Posted by curstpriest

My computer -> Select drive that resembles kindle -> Eject (only way)
DO NO USE SAFELY REMOVE HARDWARE

Only if you're using Windows Vista or Windows 7. Amazon tell you to use safely remove hardware if you're running XP.

Originally Posted by curstpriest

All the wall charger is, is a ac to dc transformer that outputs 4.9v dc.

It isn't quite that simple. USB chargers to reduce costs don't include a processor to handle the USB power negotiation system. This means that the device needs to be able to tell whether the charger itself is capable of supplying the requested current. The way they did this was to do very basic signalling based on the voltage present on the data lines. Specific voltages indicate what current the charger is capable of supplying.

There are many devices now which charge via USB and are capable of charging faster if they are supplied with more than the maximum 500mA per port that USB 1 and USB 2.0 specify. You're allowed to supply more than that if you want and most of the USB decoration devices rely on that to operate though. This detection happens either via negotiation with the computer using the USB protocol or via the signalling system I mentioned previously. A device should connect in low power mode which at most draws 100mA and request more power from the host. If this is granted then it can enter full power mode and draw whatever it negotiated. The UK Kindle charger is capable of supplying 850mA at 5V which corresponds to a faster charge.

If the USB data lines aren't connected correctly or aren't connected in the expected manner then some devices will refuse to charge. An example would be iPhones and iPod touches. They won't charge properly if it isn't connected to a computer or a correctly wired charger. If you do connect it to an official Apple charger then it knows that it can charge at 1A instead of 500mA and it is significantly quicker.

Originally Posted by curstpriest

You should be able to charge your kindle/ipod/any usb device even while your computer is off. The power supply (if it's on) still supplies power to the motherboard, and over the 5v rail, so your USB gets power.

The 5V standby line from your PSU is generally only rated for around 500-1000mA in total which includes whatever your motherboard itself needs and any devices attached to it. This means you can't go crazy with plugging in multiple devices to charge off the USB ports when the machine is off. Your screenshot is only showing the main 5V line and not the 5VSB line from the PSU.

[curstpriest]

Not much uses the SB line, but it's pretty generous... at least on my PSU, but I don't have a crap psu

[Tiersten]

Originally Posted by curstpriest

Not much uses the SB line, but it's pretty generous... at least on my PSU, but I don't have a crap psu

Generic PCs only have a 300ish watt PSU so what you've got isn't the norm :P Even with your PSU, the absolute most you can charge off it would be 6 devices which draw the maximum 500mA and thats assuming 0 consumption by the motherboard. It generally isn't a good idea to actually hit the rated limits of a PSU either.

[curstpriest]

I used to use cheap psus (sprakle, and other chinese made garbage), but after running efficiency tests on them, and seeing 60-70%, it was time to shell out the extra monies for good ones. The corsair line is pretty solid. They give you a 5 year warranty on all of their high end models that run around 70-130$ and have 80-90% efficiency. Besides, you simply must have a 500+ watt PSU for even the lowest of low end PCIE gfx cards now days =X (I run XFIRE)

[justkel76]

Just wanted to thank you guys for the info on how to eject my kindle touch. The other sites wanted to charge me to answer the question. appreciate it!!