Leaf boot loop after deleting a system app

[frankbonatelli]

Interesting.

As I do not have adb and or fastboot access in its current state, what magic might allow me to achieve the flashing of a new recovery?
Thanks for your continued knowledge sharing.

[Renate]

Hmm, can you get it to EDL? Do you ever see 05c6/9008 being active?

[frankbonatelli]

Actually unsure about that

[frankbonatelli]

I have been able to follow a few different how too's i seen here and i am fairly certain that i have everything installed correctly. I'm just not sure where to start when i add the devices into the mix.

[Renate]

I'm not sure that there is any boot count in there, but you can try rebooting to whatever appears and when nothing happens long power press to reset. See if it eventually comes up other, but I mostly doubt it.

There is always a way to recover by opening the device. As said before, this is dependent on your device, your nerve and your will.

[Renate]

Well, does it ever "bong" and what is there?

[frankbonatelli]

Ha. I like it.

I've always felt when a thing is already broken can they get any more broken? If you have a link to the I'm always up to a challenge!

[frankbonatelli]

so as i said I am not really sure where to start when trying to enter EDL
But as for wether windows sees a device is connected USBlog shows

05C6:900E 628aced9 2022-09-25 17:11 QUSB_BULK_SN:E338D0E5

when plugged in.

[Renate]

Grrr, 900e

Let me experiment....

[frankbonatelli]

you assist is appreciated
however please don't waist your days on this fight.
If you stumble upon a path for lesser mortals like myself, share it out for all to see. In the mean time ill see if taring it apart will open another trail to follow.

[Renate]

Well, opening it will always work, but use your judgement.

There's no hole that we can't dig a little deeper.

I just went looking at the Leaf and Leaf2 layout.
They are similar to the Barnes & Noble Glow2 which is a metal shell and a faceplate inset using double-stick tape.
Taking these apart without any cosmetic damage is a bit tricky.
I've used single edge razor blades to carefully work along a long edge to pry it up little by little with bending the front panel as little as possible.
Only insert the razor blade about the estimated thickness of the fron panel.
You don't want to split the layers of the front panel, nor do you want to go too deep.
The front panel will connect with flex circuits on one side or the other.
On the Glow 2 it connects on the left side, so you work the right side and let it open as little as possible before you release the connectors on the left side.
Maybe 45 degrees maximum.
You want to work slowly then insert thin plastic shims to prevent it from resticking.
You can use cut up pieces from plastic packaging.
Then you can work the top and bottom and eventually fold the screen up a bit.

[frankbonatelli]

Originally Posted by Renate

Well, opening it will always work, but use your judgement.

There's no hole that we can't dig a little deeper.

I just went looking at the Leaf and Leaf2 layout.
They are similar to the Barnes & Noble Glow2 which is a metal shell and a faceplate inset using double-stick tape.
Taking these apart without any cosmetic damage is a bit tricky.
I've used single edge razor blades to carefully work along a long edge to pry it up little by little with bending the front panel as little as possible.
Only insert the razor blade about the estimated thickness of the fron panel.
You don't want to split the layers of the front panel, nor do you want to go too deep.
The front panel will connect with flex circuits on one side or the other.
On the Glow 2 it connects on the left side, so you work the right side and let it open as little as possible before you release the connectors on the left side.
Maybe 45 degrees maximum.
You want to work slowly then insert thin plastic shims to prevent it from resticking.
You can use cut up pieces from plastic packaging.
Then you can work the top and bottom and eventually fold the screen up a bit.

Excellent
Ill let you all know when im in.
Maybe even a few photos for all to learn from.
Thanks for the assist.

[frankbonatelli]

Right i have it apart
It actually popped apart very easily and so far minimal damages. Actually 2 little scratches. Now what..... Any humans out there with an idea what Ill be looking for now that im inside?

I've taken a few photos and uploaded them to the forum user control panel but i can not seem to get them here for general viewing.

[frankbonatelli]

Well here are photos
you can see that the battery light is still active son i guess
its not dead yet.

[Renate]

Congratulations! You have been awarded the Order of Merit (Bravery).

Mmm, I did mean single edge razor blade, not a utility knife blade...

Ok, it's open, great.
I'm looking at the circuit board trying to find the EDL test points.
That photo is really hard to see.
I can't see what I'm looking for at first glance.

So, what do you have for experience/tools?
Voltmeter (digital)?
Resistors (220 ohm to 2200 ohm)?
USB UART with 1.8V logic level?

The likely UART points I've indicate could allow you to watch boot, but you really need a particular UART that works with 1.8V. That's a new style that different than the old 3.3 or 5V style.

You're probably looking for a pair of gold dots that are not directly near a connector or springs with the same number of points.
The UART points give you a hint of things that are by themselves.

They could be hiding under some black tape, but you don't have to go ripping it all up. A bit of a peek might be in order though.

Don't try to just short anything with plain wire.
That's not a good idea until you know what's what.

A better photo of just the circuit board would help.

It's interesting to know that this just clicks together.