PW3 Went Dead - need to know the reasons !!! - Page 2

rhari79 · 01-26-2021, 02:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Alaxander609

Also I tried with 12 V fas charger for 2 days - seems like battery died to me...

Are you sure the output was 12V ?
I am not too sure this is good.
I had earlier bricked a sony tablet and a Newton using a wrong(higher volt) charge pin.
I think it is ok to be a bit loose on the Amp and Watt, but it usually has to be 5V output max.

Alaxander609 · 01-26-2021, 02:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rhari79

Are you sure the output was 12V ?
I am not too sure this is good.
I had earlier bricked a sony tablet and a Newton using a wrong(higher volt) charge pin.
I think it is ok to be a bit loose on the Amp and Watt, but it usually has to be 5V output max.

Its the new fast charger which detects how much is needed. Eventough that note first thing I tried.. first I tried via Power bank, then computer & last wall outlet all 8 hours at least

So I think its the battery - but we will know once we get the new one...

DNSB · 01-26-2021, 09:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Alaxander609

Its the new fast charger which detects how much is needed. Eventough that note first thing I tried.. first I tried via Power bank, then computer & last wall outlet all 8 hours at least

So I think its the battery - but we will know once we get the new one...

One friend of mine fried his almost new Kindle Oasis when he used his Huawei phone charger with it. Evidently the power management didn't work as expected and his poor Oasis got treated to 18V.

Quoth · 01-27-2021, 11:26 AM

Never put a PSU / Charger that has an output of more than 5.2V on to ANY device specified for 5V.

Similarly a 19V or 20V laptop won't power off less than about 18.5V and may be destroyed by more than 21V.

I'd not connect any non-USB C device to a USB C port without a mini USB 2.0 Hub and a USB C to mini or micro USB adaptor cable. The cheap less than $10 hub can test the cable.

Quoth · 01-27-2021, 11:38 AM

Also normal USB things all have an upper limit of current draw, using on the back or spec. A so called fast charger will never deliver more. In reality only USB C spec has true fast chargers, up to 20V, via negotiation on a serial bus. Regular USB devices take 0.1A, 0.5A, 1.5A or 2A and measure the DC voltage on the USB D+ and D- pins to decide if more than 100mA is allowed, though some only take 100mA. The exact voltages expected vary according to manufacturer (especially Apple) if more than 0.5A (500mA) is needed. Most PC ports can do 0.5A, some can do 1A, few do more.
Chargers can supply what it says on them, but above 0.5A, to get 1A, 1.5A or 2A the make and model of charger needs to match the make and model of device. Most ereaders are 0.5A or 1A and most larger tablets are up to 2A.

Even a 2A Table will charge fine at 0.5A when sleeping. It may not charge at all if CPU is at full speed and display full brightness and it's not the original charger.

If a known cable and charger charges one thing and not another overnight, or safer all day, then either the battery is dead or socket is faulty.

badgoodDeb · 01-27-2021, 02:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Quoth

If a known cable and charger charges one thing and not another overnight, or safer all day, then either the battery is dead or socket is faulty.

Not necessarily. A really dead battery has been seen to be helped by several days on a wall charger.

j.p.s · 01-27-2021, 03:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by badgoodDeb

Not necessarily. A really dead battery has been seen to be helped by several days on a wall charger.

Yes, and also quite a few dead battery kindles that will (eventually) charge from a wall charger and not a computer USB port (and sometimes wrapping the kindle and putting
it in a freezer for a few hours, removing it from the freezer, then charging from a wall charger is required).

Alaxander609 · 01-27-2021, 04:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by j.p.s

Yes, and also quite a few dead battery kindles that will (eventually) charge from a wall charger and not a computer USB port (and sometimes wrapping the kindle and putting
it in a freezer for a few hours, removing it from the freezer, then charging from a wall charger is required).

Yup did all this ... battery will be reaching by Friday .. let see what happens

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Alaxander609 · 01-29-2021, 07:40 AM

Kindle battery is now replaced, checked for the voltage its delivering 3.7 V continous with no drops, but still kindle PW3 is not booting up..

What are my options next ?

I will keep it for overnight charging...

How can I revive the Kindle.. any thoughts ?

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01-27-2021, 11:26 AM	#19
Quoth Still reading Posts: 14,036 Karma: 105092227 Join Date: Jun 2017 Location: Ireland Device: All 4 Kinds: epub eink, Kindle, android eink, NxtPaper	Never put a PSU / Charger that has an output of more than 5.2V on to ANY device specified for 5V. Similarly a 19V or 20V laptop won't power off less than about 18.5V and may be destroyed by more than 21V. I'd not connect any non-USB C device to a USB C port without a mini USB 2.0 Hub and a USB C to mini or micro USB adaptor cable. The cheap less than $10 hub can test the cable.

01-27-2021, 11:38 AM	#20
Quoth Still reading Posts: 14,036 Karma: 105092227 Join Date: Jun 2017 Location: Ireland Device: All 4 Kinds: epub eink, Kindle, android eink, NxtPaper	Also normal USB things all have an upper limit of current draw, using on the back or spec. A so called fast charger will never deliver more. In reality only USB C spec has true fast chargers, up to 20V, via negotiation on a serial bus. Regular USB devices take 0.1A, 0.5A, 1.5A or 2A and measure the DC voltage on the USB D+ and D- pins to decide if more than 100mA is allowed, though some only take 100mA. The exact voltages expected vary according to manufacturer (especially Apple) if more than 0.5A (500mA) is needed. Most PC ports can do 0.5A, some can do 1A, few do more. Chargers can supply what it says on them, but above 0.5A, to get 1A, 1.5A or 2A the make and model of charger needs to match the make and model of device. Most ereaders are 0.5A or 1A and most larger tablets are up to 2A. Even a 2A Table will charge fine at 0.5A when sleeping. It may not charge at all if CPU is at full speed and display full brightness and it's not the original charger. If a known cable and charger charges one thing and not another overnight, or safer all day, then either the battery is dead or socket is faulty.

01-29-2021, 07:40 AM	#24
Alaxander609 Member Posts: 16 Karma: 10 Join Date: Jan 2021 Device: Kindle PW3	Kindle battery is now replaced, checked for the voltage its delivering 3.7 V continous with no drops, but still kindle PW3 is not booting up.. What are my options next ? I will keep it for overnight charging... How can I revive the Kindle.. any thoughts ?

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