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Old 06-29-2016, 09:34 AM   #16
filmo
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Yes soldering new battery wires to old battery wires is safer but you seem to have made excellent solder joints in the attached picture.

Last edited by filmo; 06-29-2016 at 03:42 PM.
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Old 06-29-2016, 12:34 PM   #17
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I was expecting tiny solder points directly on the circuit board. That looks a bit less white knuckle. I may have to crack open my backup T1 and take a look. It may just be possible for me.
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Old 06-29-2016, 03:07 PM   #18
colourqueen
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Yes soldering new battery wires to old battery wires is saver but you seem to have made excellent solder joints in the attached picture.
Haha that was the 'before' picture. Here is the after one - still not too bad for a female who has never been taught the art of soldering!
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Old 06-29-2016, 03:11 PM   #19
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Looks good to me. I've soldered things for years, but solder connections on circuit boards have gotten much smaller... and my eyes older.
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Old 06-29-2016, 04:15 PM   #20
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I once had job soldering telephone 401 cable (pairs) to telephone switchboard for weeks. Using 100 watt soldering iron. Would erode a crater in soldering iron tip after a few days. Crater made soldering easier.
Must have correct wattage soldering iron, size tip and solder for job.
After soldering 2 small wires together don't wrap multiple layers of tape over solder joint but only fold of electrical tape over soldered wire joint that is parallel to insulated wire so it is in fold with sticky sides of tape stuck together. This way minimum bulk to finished insulated solder joint.

Last edited by filmo; 06-29-2016 at 04:19 PM.
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Old 06-29-2016, 06:11 PM   #21
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*knock on wood* All of my Sony's still work. PRS 650 that I bought 5+ years ago, T1 that I bought about a year ago, T3 that I got about 6 months ago, and T2 that I just got in the last week couple of weeks.
My T1 works no bother. My 650 needs a new battery.
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Old 06-29-2016, 08:32 PM   #22
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I just noticed that most people are listing the pcs-prt100sl from Cameron Sino as the replacement. Unfortunately, it's 700 mAh while the original is 1000 mAh.

I see the CS logo in your pictures, is that the model battery?
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Old 06-30-2016, 04:14 PM   #23
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Haha that was the 'before' picture. Here is the after one - still not too bad for a female who has never been taught the art of soldering!
Well done, and congrats on re-invigorating your PRS-T1.

Now I know who to PM if I want a new battery installed in my PRS-350.

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Old 12-27-2016, 02:16 PM   #24
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What's the best way to open one of these? Any particular tool?
Went to look at what was involved in replacing a battery today and found I did more to nick the edges than actually opening the device.
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Old 12-27-2016, 02:49 PM   #25
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Hi - I used a watch case opening tool that I had. The big secret though is to start opening the case at the top right hand corner - so top left with the back facing you. The second thing is to take it slowly! There are several you-tube videos that show how to do it.
Good luck!
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Old 12-27-2016, 06:46 PM   #26
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Any particular tool?
Went to look at what was involved in replacing a battery today and found I did more to nick the edges than actually opening the device.
Guitar pick seems to be commonly recommended. Thin enough but strong enough.
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Old 12-28-2016, 09:56 AM   #27
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Just a reference:
In this thread PRS-T1 battery problem - any suggestions? there is some info regarding bypassing the "overheat monitoring chip", seems to work.
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Old 12-28-2016, 02:25 PM   #28
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I don't think i have the overheat problem. Charging takes about an hour and a half and if I use a bit of internet the charge is only good for about a week of use.

Guitar pick sounds like a great idea. Sounds like most people are saying not to use anything metal to pry with.
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