K3 is constantly restarting even after factory reset

[knc1]

Originally Posted by Yourcat

If it still has a CD/DVD drive try to burn a CD.

Or boot from a USB connected CD/DVD drive if you have one.

(/dev/sr is the generic CD/DVD device and the message is complaining about the 'boot from USB' function not emulating an actual CD/DVD drive it can handle)

[phasor]

The bootable USB didn't work even on an old laptop, but I have made a bootable CD and it works. Anyway it didn't repair my Kindle so I think that there is some problem with hardware.

I went through all the Kubrick procedure and got all the green lights. When it comes to flashing the main partition, which should take from 1 to 3 hours, it was done in several seconds and a message "Flashing done" appeared. After that it was not possible to start Kindle. It didn't respond.
Then I put it on charger and it was charging the battery for several hours. Then the charging LED was turned off without become green and after reconnecting the cable it becomes orange again and continue charging.
Something weird is happening. It seems that even not being used Kindle runs some processes and drains the battery (or the new battery is also bad). The battery was fully charged two days ago, Kindle was not used, but still today it takes hours to recharge it. Sometimes happens that I try to turned it on and it turns on after 2 minutes, and starts with restarting. So it is doing something for that time which is not reflected on the screen.
Maybe power module is bad and interrupt the supply, which causes the frozen screen and often restarting.

I will try again tomorrow after charging the battery again. If it doesn't help it must be some hardware problem, so buy buy K3
Pocketbook InkPad will be my next choice

[phasor]

This morning I have found that even after recharging the battery voltage was 3,1V. So both of my batteries are dead and either the new one was also bad or Kindle is draining it due to some hardware problem.
Can I take the ordinary AA batteries (3 pieces = 4,5V) and solder the wires to + and - in Kindle, just to test it? What to do with additional 2 contacts in Kindle?

[knc1]

Originally Posted by phasor

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Can I take the ordinary AA batteries (3 pieces = 4,5V) and solder the wires to + and - in Kindle, just to test it? What to do with additional 2 contacts in Kindle?

No.
Too high a voltage.

But you can get re-chargeables in a AA size and use a pair in a two battery holder.
There is a thread on that posted here.

On a K3 - you can ignore the other two contacts - the firmware does use them, but does not error out on the results.
Missing information is ok - see thread mentioned above.

[dhdurgee]

Originally Posted by knc1

No.
Too high a voltage.

But you can get re-chargeables in a AA size and use a pair in a two battery holder.
There is a thread on that posted here.

On a K3 - you can ignore the other two contacts - the firmware does use them, but does not error out on the results.
Missing information is ok - see thread mentioned above.

Wouldn't a power supply be an even better option? If we are talking about exterior power in any case, might as well have one that will not degrade.

Dave

[knc1]

Originally Posted by dhdurgee

Wouldn't a power supply be an even better option? If we are talking about exterior power in any case, might as well have one that will not degrade.

Dave

If you disable the Kindle's battery management 'charge' feature.

I wouldn't dare predict what would happen if the Kindle tried to charge an external power supply.

[Yourcat]

@phasor: Better use an old smartphone lipo.

[phasor]

I agree it is better to use a Li-Po battery since K3 will try to charge it and it might be tricky if it apply an algorithm for Li-Po to Ni-Mh battery (or non rechargeable battery) since they have different characteristics, internal impedance etc.
I have some Ni-Mh and it would be the simplest way to do the experiment. I suppose I should use 3x1,2=3,6V, not 2 pieces? If you persuade me that this will not burn my USB port on laptop I could try

Thank you all for comments and advices

[knc1]

Originally Posted by phasor

I agree it is better to use a Li-Po battery since K3 will try to charge it and it might be tricky if it apply an algorithm for Li-Po to Ni-Mh battery (or non rechargeable battery) since they have different characteristics, internal impedance etc.
I have some Ni-Mh and it would be the simplest way to do the experiment. I suppose I should use 3x1,2=3,6V, not 2 pieces? If you persuade me that this will not burn my USB port on laptop I could try

Thank you all for comments and advices

I think that is what was used in the thread on the subject.

You only want to use that setup long enough to confirm that the Kindle will boot.
It will try to re-charge the batteries, but if not fully charged when you use them, they can handle the charging current just fine.

It would only be when they reach their charge limit that the differences would become relevant, and you are not going to need them hooked up that long.

- - - - -

Burn up your USB port?
What are you thinking?
There is no direct connection between the battery circuitry and the USB power bus.
Everything is powered through power conversion / regulator systems.

[Yourcat]

I assume you open the old Kindle lipos to extract the charge/control chip. I would not try to load nimh here.

[geekmaster]

Originally Posted by Yourcat

I assume you open the old Kindle lipos to extract the charge/control chip. I would not try to load nimh here.

Actually, I replace the LiPo in the dead kindle battery, leaving the connectors, circuit board, and mounting frame all intact. If the replacement LiPo does not have its own thermal protection (mine does), you need to wrap the battery pack up again so the LiPo heat can propagate to the kindle circuit board in the battery pack, to manage charging temperature.

NiMh has a different charging curve. Perpaps safe with 3 NiMh cells (never reaching peak voltage), though LiPo is much preferred. Folks HAVE used NiMh in a kindle, in fact (but using "kernel hacking" custom firmware instead of kindle battery circuit board). Overcharging NiMh makes them start thermally DISCHARGE, so they use a peak charging algorithm. LiPos use a dual charge algorithm (fixed current until they reach maximum voltage (4.2v) then a ramp down current until they are at full capacity (same 4.2v, but much longer discharge time).

Always keep in mind that LiPos are a potential fire hazard, but usually only after they have been physically damaged, or charged or discharged beyond their specifications.

And if you use a battery from an old phone or camera (instead of an R/C toy), probably no need to disasemble it -- just wire the '+' and '-' to the corresponding pads on the kindle battery PCB. I plan to test an old phone battery in my kindle soon.