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#136 |
Bibliophagist
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Around here, you can still hard-wire an appliance and quite a few appliances come that way. One neighbour during a kitchen remodel added a warming drawer which was hard-wired. You need to have the appropriate permits and, preferably, a licensed electrician do the work. The electrician is not necessary but it keeps the insurance company from being able to deny a claim. If your appliance comes with a plug, it makes more sense to have the electrician install the 220V outlet unless you really want to pay again when you replace the appliance.
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#137 | ||
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Anyway, the point is that the voltage is the important bit and something plugged in "decides" (by design, function etc) how much power to use, not the power ability of the socket. I'm glad to hear the USA now can have plug in fast boil kettles and portable electric heaters that are 2500W to 3000W like Europe. ![]() Here a washing machine or dryer plugs into a regular socket, but anything stationary can be wired into a fused outlet, just like the hot water tank heaters use. Of course anything involving direct wiring is supposed to be installed by a registered installer, but no-one has a database of your house wiring … |
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#138 |
Grand Sorcerer
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Which is fine and dandy... until the house burns down and the insurance company refuses to pay, pointing to faulty wiring.
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#139 | |
Bibliophagist
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Yes, quite a few people may skip the permitting process but that brings us back to the insurance claim being rejected. |
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#140 | |
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You are a nit-picker. Also when it comes to electrical fires the issue is chargers, lithium, batteries, Christmas tree lights, Whirlpool and related brand tumble dryers, fridges, freezers, washing machines. Not DIY added sockets or wiring. Occasionally phones/tablets under a cushion (inc Apple). Gadget makers often include a warning about covering or charging on a soft surface. Long ago it was valve (tube) TVs or Radios with curtains against them. Most fires due to electrical wiring faults appear to have been industrial and commercial premises. The fuse or trip will go if bad DIY wiring and the biggest risk isn't fire anyway, with DIY, but electric shock or electrocution. That's why it supposed to be done by a registered electrician. It's also why there are special extra regulations about bathrooms, showers and how close an electrical socket can be to the metal draining board of sink, or to a wash hand basin. |
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#141 | |
Grand Sorcerer
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#142 |
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Obviously you can do anything yourself, anywhere. Consequences vary and badly done DIY wiring is very much more likely to cause shock (resulting burns or head injury from hitting someting hard) or electrocution than a fire.
Your house might be raided for suspected stolen goods, drugs, abducted dogs or people, illegal immigrants, suspected misuse of Internet. The only time they raid houses over electrical issues is suspected by-passing of the Electricity meter or other methods of stealing the electricity service. Badly done gas installing (official or DIY) can result in an explosion, asphyxiation or if lucky only a fire. |
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#143 | |
Grand Sorcerer
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#144 |
Bibliophagist
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I thought it was rather obvious from context that—in Quoth's opinion—the government at whatever level does not maintain a database of household wiring from planning to as built to the building being demolished.
Going by my experience over the decades, the original drawings and the as built documentation is often useless even when it comes to items such as water cutoff valve locations. And then you have buildings built which were not even compliant with the building code when they were built never mind the current building codes. Two acquaintances of mine found that their dream home (a Victorian era building) which needed quite a bit of renovation had knob and tube wiring in use. They had to rip and replace all the wiring to be able to insure their home. Like most of the renovations seen on TV, any resemblance between the final budget and the planned budget was more or less coincidental—just removing the shredded paper insulation and upgrading cost more than their original estimate. Edit: could we wander much further from discussion of the Elipsa 2E without looping around the universe? |
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#145 | |
Grand Sorcerer
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To me, that is fairly common knowledge, so I thought ze was implying something else. My misunderstanding. |
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#146 |
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And the regulations are about 99%+ to do with avoiding injury (shock) or death (electrocution) to people or animals, not about fire.
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#147 | |
Absentminded Reader
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Kobo Elipsa 2E
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Topic drift is pretty bad on this forum. It used to irritate me a lot when I was new here ages ago. I’m used to it now. The topic that has no topic drift is an unpopular one IMO. Haha Now, topic drift is one reason why I love this site. At any rate, I never did buy an Elipsa 2E, but I am pretty certain I will in the near future. The comfort light and increased CPU power are two reasons why I would upgrade. Otherwise, the Elipsa (first gen) does everything that the 2E does, I have encountered quite a few bugs in the notebooks, however, that I haven’t heard others complain about with their 2Es. That’s another reason I am considering upgrading. |
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#148 |
Grand Sorcerer
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It is interesting that people comment on threads going off topic, AT THE END of there off topic post.
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#149 |
Connoisseur
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has anyone attempted to connect volume control usb-c to earbud adapter to see if page turn works?
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#150 | |
Absentminded Reader
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Plugging official Apple EarPods with a USB-C connector into an Elipsa or Clara 2E yields no results at all. The EarPods aren’t even recognized by audiobooks. I have not tested this on an Elipsa 2E, but I expect the same results. Great idea, though. I imagine it could work if somebody wrote a driver for it. EarPods only cost $16 these days at some locations, so it would be a cheap page turner. My problem with using Bluetooth page turners with Kobo devices is that Kobo’s software shuts off Bluetooth connections to save energy after a short period, forcing me to re-pair over and over again. So having a non-BT page turner would be rather handy. |
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