Your kindle needs repair

[s3r610]

Hi, i need some help my kindle Paper white 2 Serial Number 90D4 , show this error

Repair Needed

Your kindle needs repair.

Please contact kindle customer service at
http://www.kindles.com/support.



I cant view the hard drive in windows, it appers and disapears in an instant.

The version of the firmware i dont know, never jailbreak or anything.

I dont remember if i copy some time ago the DO_FACTORY_RESET file but didnt work

battery voltage 4.08v



Thanks

[knc1]

Originally Posted by s3r610

Hi, i need some help my kindle Paper white 2 Serial Number 90D4 , show this error

Repair Needed

Your kindle needs repair.

Please contact kindle customer service at
http://www.kindles.com/support.



I cant view the hard drive in windows, it appers and disapears in an instant.

The version of the firmware i dont know, never jailbreak or anything.

I dont remember if i copy some time ago the DO_FACTORY_RESET file but didnt work

battery voltage 4.08v



Thanks

DO_FACTORY_RESTORE ?

Since your reporting the battery voltage, you must have it open -
handy, since you are going to have to use the serial port to recover it.

Otherwise, call Amazon customer service, on a PW2 - they will probably offer you $20 for it.

[JSWolf]

(IMHO), a K2 is not worth the hassle to fix. Kindle hardware has moved on from there big time. My suggestion is to forget the K2 and get a PW3.

[geekmaster]

Spoiler:

Originally Posted by JSWolf

(IMHO), a K2 is not worth the hassle to fix. Kindle hardware has moved on from there big time. My suggestion is to forget the K2 and get a PW3.

A matter of opinion coming from somebody who does not have a K2 or a PW3. Some could express your opinion about your iPhone5 if they had money burning a hole in their pocket...

To thriftworthy folks, anything that is repairable is worthy of repair (especially if they can learn something from the experience). Disposing of stuff because it is not the latest and greatest is hardly a noble cause.

Now, if you lacked the skills and ability to acquire such skills, in which case you need to hire somebody to repair it for you, then indeed it would be cheaper to join the disposable economy and buy a newer model whilst discarding the older model.

In my case, I recently purchased multiple K2 models, some of which were in need of repair. I learned interesting things by the experience. Though it sounds like such an experience may be wasted on you personally (based on your expressed attitude) so I would strongly recommend you just discard all your old crap and buy the lastest and greatest of everthing...

[JSWolf]

Originally Posted by geekmaster

A matter of opinion coming from somebody who does not have a K2 or a PW3. Some could express your opinion about your iPhone5 if they had money burning a hole in their pocket...

Go ahead and comment on my iPhone 5.I don't mind at all. I don;t use it anymore as I have an iPhone 6s. I just never got round to changing that.

I don't have experience with a K2. But I do have some experience with a Kindle Touch and a PW3. Just because I don't own a Kindle doesn't mean I don't know about them.

[geekmaster]

Spoiler:

Originally Posted by JSWolf

Go ahead and comment on my iPhone 5.I don't mind at all. I don;t use it anymore as I have an iPhone 6s. I just never got round to changing that.

I don't have experience with a K2. But I do have some experience with a Kindle Touch and a PW3. Just because I don't own a Kindle doesn't mean I don't know about them.

I even bought some K1s. I find them fascinating. All eink devices fascinate me, but then so does VR -- the old and the new are both entertaining and enlightening.

[JSWolf]

Originally Posted by geekmaster

I even bought some K1s. I find them fascinating. All eink devices fascinate me, but then so does VR -- the old and the new are both entertaining and enlightening.

You like tinkering so old hardware can be interesting.

Do you think it is possible to take a Kindle DX and tinker with it so it's running a newer motherboard that can take a current firmware? I do think Amazon gave up on the DX too soon.

[geekmaster]

Spoiler:

Originally Posted by JSWolf

You like tinkering so old hardware can be interesting.

Do you think it is possible to take a Kindle DX and tinker with it so it's running a newer motherboard that can take a current firmware? I do think Amazon gave up on the DX too soon.

A DX is just a large-screen K2. Yifanlu was running K3 firmware on a DXG as I recall. It is possible to tinker anything you can squeeze into the eMMC on a DX -- even a totally custom OS (perhaps crafted from bits and bobbles of GPL source and firmware update scripts from newer kindles). What is possible is limited only by imagination (and perhaps swap files and add-on SD cards).

[JSWolf]

If it possible to run a firmware that supports KFX or is that beyond the hardware of the DX?

[geekmaster]

Spoiler:

Originally Posted by JSWolf

If it possible to run a firmware that supports KFX or is that beyond the hardware of the DX?

Almost anything is possible, depending on how much money and time you wish to invest in the effort. It might be easier to replace the DX (or DXG) mobo with a KOA mobo and the hacked eink driver circuitry (or DIY) from a DX. Some firmware tweaks in a KOA should be able to support the larger (and slower) DXG Pearl eink display, with plenty of room left over in the DX case for extra batteries.

It is very easy to drive eink displays directly from a tiny microprocessor, if you only need pure black and white. It is grayscale that is difficult to achieve (both batch and temperature sensitive). But B&W KFX, not that difficult if you concentrate on DX eink drivers injected into KOA firmware (and appropriate voltage adjustments on the eink signal lines).

[knc1]

Originally Posted by s3r610

Paper white 2 Serial Number 90D4
- - - -
Thanks

Followed by:

Originally Posted by JSWolf

(IMHO), a K2 is not worth the hassle to fix. Kindle hardware has moved on from there big time. My suggestion is to forget the K2 and get a PW3.

Totally out in left field, the 90D4 IS NOT a K2.

Please edit all of your posts down to a smiley face and keep this question asked by a new user on-topic.

[knc1]

Perhaps this can be forced onto the Kindle during the short time it is visible:
https://www.mobileread.com/forums/sho...81&postcount=1

This post describes the proper name to use:
https://www.mobileread.com/forums/sho...78&postcount=1

Be certain that Windows is not adding a file name extension, the file MUST be:
DO_FACTORY_RESTORE
No contents, No extension, All caps, No exceptions

[theducks]

That Battery Voltage sounds high. Most device batteries are 3.7
That was almost the full 5V of the USB port (after voltage drops)

Was the charger attached?

[geekmaster]

Originally Posted by theducks

That Battery Voltage sounds high. Most device batteries are 3.7
That was almost the full 5V of the USB port (after voltage drops)

Was the charger attached?

Most 3.7v LiPo batteries are actually 4.2v with no load. Even one of the kindle batteries I disassembled said 4.2v on the inner battery back, though the amazon label said 3.7v.

Originally Posted by https://www.adafruit.com/product/258

Lithium ion polymer (also known as 'lipo' or 'lipoly') batteries are thin, light and powerful. The output ranges from 4.2V when completely charged to 3.7V. ... The included protection circuitry keeps the battery voltage from going too high (over-charging) or low (over-use) which means that the battery will cut-out when completely dead at 3.0V.

So in reality, 4.08v is not even a full charge. 3.7v is just a "nominal" voltage, sort of a typical midrange voltage for its full operating range.

[knc1]

Originally Posted by theducks

That Battery Voltage sounds high. Most device batteries are 3.7
That was almost the full 5V of the USB port (after voltage drops)

Was the charger attached?

3.7 rated operating voltage != full charge terminal voltage.
A good condition Li-Ion battery is 4.2 at full charge, open terminal.

But that level of charge does not provide much energy - it is a "surface charge" that quicky discharges to the 'rated operating' voltage and then holds that value during the rest of its discharge cycle.

Nickle-Iron (Edison) batteries are similar - - their normal charge cut-off is above the operating voltage.