Are these Non OEM adapter specs safe for charging Kindles?

[Ico]

Hi,
Just wanted to check with You guys if these specifications are safe for long term charging the Kindle.
I have a different adapter that is 5VDC--1000mA compared to this 5VDC--550mA.
The 1000mA is a Xiaomi one(so not quite sure about output quality).
So far I kept it on my computer an let it charge on the usb port but I would rather have it in my room, because waiting for it to reach at least 50% near the computer amounts getting no reading done at all, since I lose track of time by being near the computer.
I did survey the other threads but that output mA confuses me since everybody mentions that it should be 5V but I can't find anything more than that.
Thank You for reading.

Here is the pic
http://imgur.com/a/0yHRxn4

[hobnail]

I asked the same question on an electronics subreddit on reddit and they told me that the amps don't matter. The Xiaomi is 1 amp while 550mA is about half that. I think the higher amps mean that the device being charged could draw more juice if it was designed to.

[DuckieTigger]

Originally Posted by Ico

Hi,
Just wanted to check with You guys if these specifications are safe for long term charging the Kindle.
I have a different adapter that is 5VDC--1000mA compared to this 5VDC--550mA.
The 1000mA is a Xiaomi one(so not quite sure about output quality).
So far I kept it on my computer an let it charge on the usb port but I would rather have it in my room, because waiting for it to reach at least 50% near the computer amounts getting no reading done at all, since I lose track of time by being near the computer.
I did survey the other threads but that output mA confuses me since everybody mentions that it should be 5V but I can't find anything more than that.
Thank You for reading.

Here is the pic
http://imgur.com/a/0yHRxn4

Your picture shows the standard maximum 5V@500mA output for USB 2.0. In theory, if adhering 100% to USB, a port should limit the output to 100mA (or 150 mA for USB3.0) unless the device requests up to 500mA (or 900mA for USB3.0). Anything higher requires non complient (proprietary) communication, and a fast charger certified for your specific brand and model is strongly adviseable. Unless you use USB-C, which standardizes fast charging up to 100W (20V@5A) if and only if device, cable, and charger are rated for 100W.

Kindles only do USB2.0, so you are safe long term with the 5V@500mA charger.

[Quoth]

The device doesn't request. The Device "looks at" the DC voltages on D+ and D- (the data pins) and decides how much it can take. The current rating marked on a device is maximum it will ever take.
Apple devices and gadgets that copy them use different settings for higher current.
With 500mA devices as long as the supply is 4.8V to 5.2V and can supply at least 500mA, then it's fine, though some combinations of charger and device may result in the device only taking 100mA (the original USB 1.0 spec).

Some USB 2.0 devices assume at least 500mA is available, but even if rated 2A (some tablets) will only take more than 500mA (1A, 1.5A or 2A) if the D- and D+ are having compatible DC volts/ resistors on them.

Basically if a device is 500mA, it should be fine and take up to 500mA on nearly anything, but 1A, 1.5A and 2A product need compatible hosts or chargers or they will either not work at all (DVD drives, HDDs) or only take up to 500mA.

So a 1A, 1.5A or 2A supply is fine for a Kindle.

The USB-C uses a separate PSU data channel, rather than fixed resistors or voltages on most USB-A ports (host or chargers, USB1.x, USB2.0 or USB3.0 devices). In the case of USB-C the initial default is 5V and the device does signal on the power data connection what voltage (up to 20V). Obviously not all USB-C PSUs or host ports can do the full 20V 5A, = 100W, or the chargers would all be large and expensive and a laptop would need a more powerful PSU that would ever be available. Laptop host ports might be 15W maximum shared to all the ports. USB-C also can have Display Port, a sort of limited version of HDMI. The USB-C tries to do everything in one connector, shouldn't be called USB.

[DuckieTigger]

Originally Posted by Quoth

The device doesn't request.

That shows how ignorant you are, and think you know everything better. The first gen fast chargers (e.g. for Samsung phones) were not standard USB chargers. They absolutely do not provide as much power as the device thinks it can handle without being requested. They act like normal USB chargers until the device asks for more. Samsung also increased the voltage before there was allowances for that in the USB specs (power delivery). Hence the lack of no-name generic compatible fast chargers, especially if you wanted to mix and match different brand devices on the same charger.

Do all chargers, especially the cheap ones, do what they are supposed to do? Absolutely not, but grab any modern fast charger that is compatible with USB-C, and will be safe.

[DuckieTigger]

Originally Posted by Quoth

The USB-C tries to do everything in one connector, shouldn't be called USB.

USB stands for Universal Serial Bus. Give me one good reason why the "universal" part should be limited. Same argument for the HDMI cables / connectors that are HDMI and ethernet. They shouldn't be allowed to send ANY data other than audio/video, because originally it was limited.

[stumped]

Cheap generic wall chargers, with no certification etc may not directly damage your precious kindle but they are quite capable of burning your house down. Anything with one end accessing up to 30 amps of mains voltage and not correctly fused/ with no short circuit protection is dangerous. It takes only seconds to start a fire...

As soon as one you are using begins to feel hot to touch, bin it

Before this happens....
https://www.nwales-fireservice.org.u...in-flintshire/

[Deskisamess]

We use several different OEM chargers...Apple, Amazon, and some multi-port Anker chargers, to charge our Kindles and iDevices. We mix them up all the time, and have never had an issue.

We won't use dollar store or impulse aisle cheapo chargers.

[stumped]

Originally Posted by Deskisamess

We won't use dollar store or impulse aisle cheapo chargers.

Those are the ones I was warning against , those with no, or fake, safety kitemarks

It's not just chargers, anything that plus into mains power can be a firestarter if poorly made, especially if left to operate unattended.
In the UK there has been a long running scandal of Whirlpool tumble driers causing serious fires

[JSWolf]

One thing that gets used a lot is the power tower. It has 8 sockets and 4 USB ports. It can charge an iPad so it delivers plenty of output for the USB ports.

[hobnail]

Originally Posted by stumped

Those are the ones I was warning against , those with no, or fake, safety kitemarks.

What are kitemarks? Anything specific or is that the CE thing?

I was looking at the various wall warts that I have and all of the ones that came with devices have the UL Listed logo as well as many others.

[Quoth]

Originally Posted by hobnail

What are kitemarks? Anything specific or is that the CE thing?

I was looking at the various wall warts that I have and all of the ones that came with devices have the UL Listed logo as well as many others.

Kitemark is purely UK.
The problems with UL, CE, CSA, VDE and CE are:
1) Almost no regulator does in market testing, unless there are complaints.
2) Some tests can be self certified.
3) Makers cheat and leave out filters to reduce RFI after certification. See 1, 2.
4) You don't know what they got approval for unless you access regulator records. Was it simply it's self extinguishing or generally safe. Was it tested in a realistic manner for generation of RFI (i.e. with a load and normal length of cable. Some lighting PSUs fail if tested with realistic cables to the lamps. Ethernet over mains usually only pass because they test singly or without data, in reality they are mains powered transmitters).

I've seen an Amazon charger with US power pins and a CE mark. That's illegal in the UK (must have a UK plug, though a Europlug captive in an adaptor that looks like a UK plug passes) and selling something with US power pins to consumers is illegal in most of the EU and many other countries. The UK plug has a fuse, so lightweight mains flex can be used without fire risk by a 2A, 3A, 5A fuse in the plug. The socket is wired to the fuse box with 20A or 2 x 20A rated cables and several sockets share a 20A fuse. Other countries have a fixed rating minimum cable and socket with no fuse in the plug.
A plug top (wall wart) charger/PSU for the UK system (uses in HK, some places in Africa and Ireland) is also meant to have a safety fuse internally as the socket can supply nearly 20A without any problems. It doesn't have to be replaceable. Some clock-radios and other small appliances have a thermal fuse in the transformer.
UK & Ireland shaver sockets for bathrooms must have 115 and 230V, limited by design to under 20W power and typically have a thermal limiter too. They are isolated enough so you can stand in salt water and grasp the live wire. I forget if 2,000V or 4000V isolation tested. There is no earth unless there is a metal plate.

[Quoth]

Originally Posted by stumped

Those are the ones I was warning against , those with no, or fake, safety kitemarks

It's not just chargers, anything that plus into mains power can be a firestarter if poorly made, especially if left to operate unattended.
In the UK there has been a long running scandal of Whirlpool tumble driers causing serious fires

Also their washing machines and fridges. They bought up a lot of well known brands and "cost reduced" them.

Chargers/wallwarts/plugtop PSUs are now one of the common causes of fires. Some have fake approvals and price or selling store is no protection. Some overheat if a cushion is against the socket, even if approval real.

Do not leave them plugged in. Don't leave them plugged in overnight or when out, unless it's somewhere that can't catch fire. Don't replace wall outlets with ones with built in USB PSUs.

Don't set charging phones, tablets on a soft surface. Fire risk.
Don't use laptop even not charging on a soft surface, not even your lap. Most now use pouch type LiPoly cells on the base and can overheat rapidly. Many have the important cooling vents underneath. Use a tray if in bed or on couch.

[stumped]

(I see this was already answered in detail)
kitemark is UK ( i thought European but wikipedia says UK )

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kitemark
The Kitemark is a UK product and service quality trade mark which is owned and operated by The British Standards Institution (BSI Group).

The Kitemark is most frequently used to identify products where safety is paramount, such as crash helmets, smoke alarms and flood defences...


PS as for combined power strips/ wall powerpoints which also have USB sockets ( e.g. Power tower) . it seemed a nice idea but every one I looked at ( a while ago) had a bunch of very bad reviews for USB quality & reliability

[NullNix]

Originally Posted by stumped

In the UK there has been a long running scandal of Whirlpool tumble driers causing serious fires

... though of course tumble-driers both have actual designed-to-heat-up heating elements and are meant to contain combustible materials. If your charger is like that you need to get a better charger

Low-quality non-kite-marked/fake-kite-marked adapter plugs are also a thing to look out for in the UK. Yes, they're often much trimmer than the real thing, but y'know that huge chunkiness is there for a reason: it stops curious toddlers or tired fumbling adults managing to get their fingers in contact with live conductors and keeps any sparking out of contact with things it might hurt.