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I totally second Paul Theroux and all his travel books (Riding the Iron Rooster and Dark Star Safari seem best). I also recommended his Sir Vidia's Shadow. It's not a travel book per se, but it's about his friendship with the Nobel Prize-winning writer Naipaul, and there's a LOT of travel stuff in the book since Theroux and Naipaul meet each other in Africa, England, etc.
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