FBReader has an (optional) progress bar (
screenshot on a Sharp Zaurus). It did not originally include a page count but now it does if you want, and this was so important to some readers that they implemented it themselves and contributed it back to the project. The downside of the progress bar is that it takes up screen real-estate, but I leave it on most of the time. The page count is usually per book, but the progress bar will have lines marking chapter boundaries if the e-book has a TOC.