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I prefer some form of break between chapters - whatever has to be done to proclaim a break.
My bigger pet peeve is the lack of scene/section breaks within chapters. This is especially annoying in dialogue-heavy fiction. Without the scene break, it can be very confusing. I end up reading the two paragraphs at least twice to figure out what happened.
Well-formatted eBooks have the same curlicue dingbats as the paper books, but I'll take a a dotted line, or anything, so I know we've shifted voice/place.
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