It may be that the dot is not round. It's fairly small -- as is the font used for menus generally -- so I may be mis-seeing it.
However, it's definitely not always moving with the current selection.
I've figured out the font thing. It appears you only get the "font family" submenu with text files, not with epubs. That seems... stupid? Presumably I can modify the epubs directly to set a different font.
Also, someone else was saying there's no "embolden" option. There is for text files, just not for epubs.
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