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@rantanplan, thanks! I found the thread ("Nickelmenu on 5.x firmware", if anyone else decides to look for it), useful info there.
I managed to get the "Accessibility" option in my Settings menu at last, after a manual reset (the one in which you have to hold buttons). The regular factory reset did not work for that.
My Kobo was bought in an EU country and my account is also registered in an EU country, but the first account that logged in the device was not from the EU. I'm not sure if that somehow got saved in the device so that, no matter how many "soft" factory resets I did, the Accessibility option (and thus the ability to upgrade to 6.x firmware) did not show up. As said above, only after a "hard" factory reset and logging in with an EU Kobo account first made that option available.
Now I'm off to trying out 6.x. Thanks all!
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