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I found the stock UI really very good
Only thing I did was install the Bookerly font. That was a little tricky as I had to modify the font (using instructions found on here) because it showed things as bold it shouldn't. But now it is modified it works perfectly
If you do want to have to go through that hassle, but want that font, DM me here and I can send you the modified font files. Then all you need to do is create a 'fonts' folder on your kobo and drop the files I send you in it
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