Well some experimentation with the plugin based on the info from DNSB has restored all of my collections, which makes my life a lot easier - many thanks!
Regarding my initial problem with not being able to sync, it seems that my account on Kobo was deleted at some point due to inactivity. I've never bought a book, only syncing every now and then. Rakuten/Kobo claim that accounts are deleted when inactive for 3 years, so it seems syncing doesn't count as activity. I've asked that question anyway.
At least my collections are back, but all my reading status has gone for ever, it seems.
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