Right after I posted my last comment, it occurred to me that it might have been a column I added ages ago -- rather than a built in one. And you are correct, apparently I added a Yes/No column at some point in the past, it's not using a template to determine it automatically.
For posterity's sake, after banging my head against the docs for a little bit, I've got this template sorted and it appears to do exactly what I was looking for:
program: str_in_list($formats, ',', 'EPUB', 'Yes', 'No')
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