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I still have a functional dedicated Garmin GPS with a reflective color LCD screen, readable in full sun. Must be 12 years old. It has the topo data on a mini SD card (mostly for hiking trails, but it also has some highways and roads for context).
I don’t really see why eink would be any better, it isn’t going to be able to pan and zoom very well. You can always find or make some shade to read a regular phone display, and that’s what the hiking map apps are designed for.
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