I don't really have any problem with bad HTML - a check rarely reveals any problems but I've been writing the stuff for a long time. Here's a typical page: can anyone see any problem?
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<?xml version="1.0" encoding="utf-8"?>
<!DOCTYPE html>
<html xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml" xmlns:epub="http://www.idpf.org/2007/ops">
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<title></title>
<link href="../Styles/MenuBook.css" rel="stylesheet" type="text/css"/>
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<h2>Custom Menu C1. Disp/(fig 34)/PC</h2>
<img alt="CustomC1Menu" class="figure" src="../Images/CustomC1Menu.jpg"/>
(fig 35) Control Settings
This sets what happens when you press the OK button while shooting. You can set it differently for each stills Mode, the choice being LV-C or LV-SCP. LV-C means Live Control. LV-SCP is the Super Control Panel.
<img alt="LV-CScreen" class="cameraback" src="../Images/LV-CScreen.jpg"/>
<div class="list"> LV-C: (top)gives you quick access to overall shoot settings like ISO or Aspect Ratio that you might want to alter during a shoot. You can select a parameter from the right of the screen using the up/down arrow keys or the rear dial and alter it with the right/left arrow keys or the front dial. The advantage of the LV-C screen is that it gives you a better of view of your image as you make adjustments. The disadvantage is that it is less comprehensive than the SCP.
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<div class="list"> <img alt="LV-SCPScreen" class="cameraback" src="../Images/LV-SCPScreen.jpg"/>LV-SCP: (bottom) It gives you access to a much wider range of options such as Stabilization and the AF Area but is less quick to use. You can move around the screen using the rear dial or arrow pad or touching it if you prefer. Having highlighted a parameter, you can alter it with the rear dial, press OK or a double tap on it. For most photographers the SCP will be the quickest way to adjust settings sine it puts about everything you might want to alter all in one place, just a double tap away.
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Note: there's no point in setting the SCP in P/A/S/M because in all those modes the (fig 36) button accesses it directly anyway.
<h3>(fig 37) /Info Settings</h3>
<h4>(fig 38) Info</h4>
This setting controls what happens when you press INFO while reviewing images. All unticked, the button does nothing. As you tick more boxes, a press on the INFO button when reviewing will step through them. The options are pretty straightforward.
<div class="list"> Overall gives you a histogram of the colour components of your image and the shooting information.
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<div class="list"> Highlights and Shadow gives you a flashing display of which picture areas are clipped, that is, do not contain detail, being beyond the camera's ability to capture them at the exposure used.
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<div class="list"> Light Box gives you a way to compare two images side by side. Get the image you want on screen and press Info until a split screen comes up. On the left will be a section of the image you selected and on the right the next image taken. Scroll through your images using the left and right arrow keys or the front dial until you find the one you want to compare. Turning the rear dial will magnify both images.
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<h4>LV-Info</h4>
This sets what you will see when you press the Info button while shooting pictures. With all boxes unticked toggles between an uncluttered screen and one with all the shooting information shown. You can add 1 or 2 custom screens to these, so that the Info button now toggles through 3 or 4 screens. The 2 screens offer the same 3 options on each. This is because some photographers might find the 3 extras all on one screen rather confusing. The options are the same for all screens.
<div class="list"> (fig 39): this is a histogram. It maps the brightness of pixels in an image from black on the left to white on the right and gives an indication of whether your exposure is optimal. The image Olympus use for their icon is a classically perfect histogram with no cut off of the 'mountain range' on dark or light sides. This represents an image with a dynamic range within the capabilities of the sensor. On a sunlit day, the difference in brightness between the deepest shadows and the brightest whites (the dynamic range) may be beyond the ability of the sensor to record it all. In this image (fig 40) you can see the histogram bleeds off to the left. That means that there are gradations of black that cannot be coped with by the sensor at this exposure and they will be reproduced as all uniform black. This may or may not matter, according to the amount of cut off and the detail contained in those pixels. You can bring those pixels within scope by increasing the exposure, which will move the entire range over to the right. There is a danger then that the brightest pixels will be out of the reproducible range(clipped). If so, the only option is a compromise to what seems to you the most attractive rendition.
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<div class="list"> Highlights and Shadow - this gives you a graphic representation of the areas of your picture that will be beyond the dynamic range, the range of brightness, that the Olympus E-M10 MkIV's sensor can encompass. Areas that are too dark to be reproduced (underexposed) are coloured blue, too light (overexposed) are coloured red. Note: in all of this, it should be remembered that there is no 'correct' exposure artistically. Correct exposure technically means reproducing the image with the least amount of clipping possible. Artistically, you may prefer the look of an image which is technically under or overexposed. Let your eyes be the ultimate judge of what is right pictorially. It is part of what distinguishes the work of one photographer from another.
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<div class="list"> Level Gauge - there is no quicker way to make an image look amateurish than tilting buildings or a wonky horizon. Olympus give you the chance to go straight with this option. It superimposes two bars on the screen which turn green when the image is straight horizontally and/ or vertically.</div>
<h4>(fig 37) Settings</h4>
If you go to Playback mode and turn the rear dial one click clockwise, you are presented with a grid view of all your images. This menu item lets you set how many images are presented to you at once plus, with further turns of the dial, which other screen you see (or not). Calendar lets you select a date and see what images you made that day.
<h3>Live View Boost</h3>
In normal shooting the camera gives you a view that matches what the recorded image will look like, including any exposure compensation applied. In very dim light, an image may be too dark to see properly. Set Live View Boost to On1 (bright) or On2 (brighter)and the camera gives you a screen view prioritizing easy viewing over accuracy. Note: what you see on screen may not match the recorded image and viewing may be jerky.
<h3>Flicker Reduction</h3>
Some forms of lighting induce a flickering effect on the EVF or monitor. Auto senses the problem and tries to lessen it. If that doesn't work, you can try the specific 50Hz and 60Hz settings. If you are in the USA, try 60Hz first, in Europe try 50Hz first. There's no reason to turn this Off, so Auto is the obvious setting.
<h3>Displayed Grid</h3>
This gives you a selection of grids that are overlaid on the screen. They don't appear on the recorded image, of course. These are handy for checking you are straight on to building, for example, or accurate placement of objects in a composition. Appropriately, the 3rd grid down provides you with the points for the Rule of Thirds or Golden Mean. Clichι, maybe, but it works.
<h3>Peaking Color</h3>
Choose the colour of edge outlining when using the Peaking focusing aid. The main thing is to use a colour that shows up clearly so you'll need to ring the changes as necessary.
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