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Donna Leon maybe; her Commissario Guido Brunetti series. She's American but lives and teaches in Venice.
Also try Andrea Camilleri, his Inspector Montalbano series. Andrea Camilleri was born in Sicily but he lives in Rome; his series is set in Sicily. Surprisingly, not a lot of Mafia violence.
Your question reminds me of one of the Hamish MacBeth books by M. C. Beaton where the body count was truly double-digit. The earlier ones in that series are quite entertaining because of her humor. The ones I read of her Agatha Raisin series never worked for me.
As always, read them in order.
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