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Originally Posted by davidfor
The power LED coming on and then off after a bit, usually a sign that either the battery is flat, or that the device cannot find anything to boot from. From your report, the only thing I can't see is what happens when you try to turn it on while it is plugged in. But, it should just turn on after a few minutes if you plug it in with a flat battery. That suggests the problem is the card.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by frostschutz
for the Aura H2O, if you remove the internal SD card altogether, the LED will light up for ~ 10 seconds whenever you try to power it on. only one way to find out if that's it... good luck
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It was indeed the card! I opened it up and re-seated the card and everything is working perfectly again! An extra note here, it seems when the card is not detected (or possibly corrupted), the device shows up in Windows as "NS Blank Codex".
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Unfortunately, I'd also be suspicious of the battery. The history suggests it might have been in a discharged state for to long. It might not be holding a charge for to long. Unless you have testing equipment, you will need to get it running before you can tell. I'd try the image and then decide about the battery.
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I am still unsure about the battery. I did verify, while it was on the operating table, that the battery from the older Kobo Aura physically is the same size, so if the battery is iffy, I have a few spares available to replace it with!
Thank you both for your quick and helpful replies! I plan to upgrade the card to an 8GB one after I am convinced about the battery, so for now it remains only loosely reassembled.
Meanwhile, some other observations about taking apart the device, in case anybody comes looking ...
The device is surprisingly easy to open up! Wisdom suggests heating the frame up, but I think perhaps leaving it cold is the way to go for this one. A fingernail was enough to pry the side open and get an old credit card in. Once that was done, I methodically slid the card around over and over till I cut thru all of the glue. I think if the glue is heated up, you might have issues with it constantly re-adhering, while in the cold state, after enough passes, it just stayed cut or at least was easy to pull apart again.
There are two bezels, and this seems to be a source of confusion. From what I saw, if you want to work on the SD card or the battery, LEAVE the inner bezel stuck to the screen. If you want to replace the screen, the inner bezel is better off removed with the external one. AFAIK, the inner bezel is part of the touch mechanism (this one uses a different type of digitizer than usual, something to do with IR if I remember?) ... If you pull the inner bezel out, its not the end of the world, but you risk improper alignment which means bad touch responses.
The inner bezel protects the screen from any contact (doesn't mean you get rough, but just means with a plastic card, its safe). On the four corners is where you have gaps, and you can either a) lift off the top with the inner bezel attached or b) twist the card around carefully to get it in between the inner bezel and outer bezel and then continue to slide till the top comes off.
NOTE: When you mess around with the inner bezel, there is a very real risk of breaking the screen, so definitely touch that ONLY if your display is already broken. You will have enough clearance to visually observe what is going on at the edges and carefully move the card around. Do NOT try to do it blind.
The external bezel (the top frame around the screen) is actually somewhat flexible, so once you get between it and the inner bezel, it comes off very very easily. The card, IF its in the right place, can safely be pushed thru till it sticks out over the screen, and then you just slide it all around to cut thru the last bits of glue.