Quote:
Originally Posted by WaseemAlkurdi
When I said that you have to get a "full 1.8 volts", I didn't really mean that you should get 1.800 volts. 1.765 is close enough. But 0.8 volts, like what you said a couple of posts ago, isn't. Perhaps you actually meant you were getting 1.8 volts, but mis-typed it as 0.8? Anyhow, you're good with 1.765 volts. I've seen a close reading on my Kindle (it was in the 1.700 range, never quite hitting 1.8) The issue isn't there.
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No, there was no typo :\ it was 1.8 all the way until it showed below 1 as with 0.8
Quote:
Originally Posted by WaseemAlkurdi
Are you saying that it stops giving a signal at some point? That is a sign of trouble. The Kindle is not supposed to totally stop transmitting data via serial while it's turned on. It's either a kernel panic or a power issue ...
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It's not like it goes down and thats it, i saw it go up again it's like in cycles every few mins. i thought it's normal as there is no way it will continue to send the signal after booting up. could it be the battery also?
Quote:
Originally Posted by WaseemAlkurdi
That is right ... but it should send a "burst" of output every now and then. It shouldn't just die off to the point that you have to plug it in?
Two important questions:
- When you plug it in, does it restart? Not restarting is a good sign.
- Tried to test whether other areas on the Kindle's board are still powered up when the serial output voltage dies? This would tell us whether the whole Kindle has gone off or not.
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It doesn't die completely it cycles eventually.
1. No idea if it restarts i got no screen on it
2. i did test and the power is on for other parts
Quote:
Originally Posted by WaseemAlkurdi
Is GND securely connected to a screw or an RF shield? It is required for serial output.
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it is, i unscrewed the screw and then screwed it on the cable so it's really tight
Quote:
Originally Posted by WaseemAlkurdi
My Kindle is sealed-up at the moment, and the adapter is not with me at the moment, so I can't verify, but I guess that's correct for a 3.3-volt adapter.
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That's ok i ordered all the various parts just in case so if this won't work there are several back up plans.
Quote:
Originally Posted by WaseemAlkurdi
100% correct ... you have now observed what I told you a post ago:
Don't give up. It's bound to work eventually.
Look, once you get 1.765 volts at the header and something close to that at the end of the cable you soldered, tape the cable and don't play with it. You might rip off the headers by accidents.
"Manually without soldering" is how I initially did mine until I went to a shop and had it soldered. You have to press the cable so hard on the pad that your thumb would hurt like crazy and the board would flex ... Definitely not recommended, and you might break the board in two. Just stick to soldering it once and for good, as I said above.
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This is exactly what i did since the connections are tiny! , there is no other options it rips so easily, the manual method is just to check it works before putting the effort into soldering it (which takes some time due to poor skills and tiny pads)
Quote:
Originally Posted by WaseemAlkurdi
It's because your adapter uses a different chipset. If it appears when you plug the adapter in and disappears when you unplug it, then simply don't mind it.
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Ok
Quote:
Originally Posted by WaseemAlkurdi
What do you expect to happen otherwise?
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I thought it either works completely or not at all but in general since i did all the connections perfectly why won't it show the others?
Quote:
Originally Posted by WaseemAlkurdi
The voltage at the headers is absolutely fine. Just check whether the end of the cable has approximately same voltage as the headers or not. And it probably will, but please check it.
I'm tending to think that the adapter is to blame ... except that I seen a post (either a "success report" or a tutorial) on this very forum that used the same adapter chipset as you do. If I hadn't seen that post, I would've told you to get an adapter with the recommended FT232 chip.
That leaves out only one real possibility. Perhaps your adapter is broken?
To see, go to a local store, ask for an adapter (whatever you can get ,either like the one you have or one with a FTDI chip), and test it on the spot, before buying. That would tell you whether your adapter is working or not, and if the adapter in the store worked, you could simply buy that.
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The shops here are pretty bad and if they have the parts it's super expensive but i did order all the other options including your adapter from ebay just 2 weeks to go or so.
based on the comment from KNC1 i connected it incorrectly so i wanna try to mess with that next.