[WaseemAlkurdi]

I did that, after cleaning as best i could i was still getting 1.765 or so on each pad, i tried soldering again and did a pretty good job but it still didn't work.

When I said that you have to get a "full 1.8 volts", I didn't really mean that you should get 1.800 volts. 1.765 is close enough. But 0.8 volts, like what you said a couple of posts ago, isn't. Perhaps you actually meant you were getting 1.8 volts, but mis-typed it as 0.8? Anyhow, you're good with 1.765 volts. I've seen a close reading on my Kindle (it was in the 1.700 range, never quite hitting 1.8) The issue isn't there.

First of all each connection only gets 1.7 every now and then so it's annoying to measure unless i plug in the usb cable that make sure it's 1.7 for the next couple of mins for sure.

Are you saying that it stops giving a signal at some point? That is a sign of trouble. The Kindle is not supposed to totally stop transmitting data via serial while it's turned on. It's either a kernel panic or a power issue ...

Logical since i assume it transmits every now and then or only during bootup.

That is right ... but it should send a "burst" of output every now and then. It shouldn't just die off to the point that you have to plug it in?
Two important questions:
- When you plug it in, does it restart? Not restarting is a good sign.
- Tried to test whether other areas on the Kindle's board are still powered up when the serial output voltage dies? This would tell us whether the whole Kindle has gone off or not.

Hooking it up to the adapter yielded the same results as before GND lights up RX seems to work but TX doesn't.

Is GND securely connected to a screw or an RF shield? It is required for serial output.

I checked the jumpers this time and got 3.1 and 2.1 on RX and TX.

My Kindle is sealed-up at the moment, and the adapter is not with me at the moment, so I can't verify, but I guess that's correct for a 3.3-volt adapter.

For some reason i only get TX to light up if i short it with GND or with RX and the gibberish i got was from any place on the board if i touch it with RX including the shields so it's just electrical gibberish at this point.

100% correct ... you have now observed what I told you a post ago:

It's normal. The gibberish is because electricity is going in, but the "translation" by the serial cable results in gibberish because the input isn't "correct" serial protocol.

No matter how i played with it including manually without soldering it didn't work...

Don't give up. It's bound to work eventually.
Look, once you get 1.765 volts at the header and something close to that at the end of the cable you soldered, tape the cable and don't play with it. You might rip off the headers by accidents.
"Manually without soldering" is how I initially did mine until I went to a shop and had it soldered. You have to press the cable so hard on the pad that your thumb would hurt like crazy and the board would flex ... Definitely not recommended, and you might break the board in two. Just stick to soldering it once and for good, as I said above.

The adapter shows up on linux but different from the guide

It's because your adapter uses a different chipset. If it appears when you plug the adapter in and disappears when you unplug it, then simply don't mind it.

and only 1 connection seems to be showing in tti0, on windows it's not better.

What do you expect to happen otherwise?

I'm beginning to think the voltage or adapter are the problem as i tried enough things to make sure it's not my fault

The voltage at the headers is absolutely fine. Just check whether the end of the cable has approximately same voltage as the headers or not. And it probably will, but please check it.
I'm tending to think that the adapter is to blame ... except that I seen a post (either a "success report" or a tutorial) on this very forum that used the same adapter chipset as you do. If I hadn't seen that post, I would've told you to get an adapter with the recommended FT232 chip.

That leaves out only one real possibility. Perhaps your adapter is broken?
To see, go to a local store, ask for an adapter (whatever you can get ,either like the one you have or one with a FTDI chip), and test it on the spot, before buying. That would tell you whether your adapter is working or not, and if the adapter in the store worked, you could simply buy that.