The Washington Post has a whole bunch of articles about organic products.
The most recent was about milk:
https://www.washingtonpost.com/busin...=.fe2a60f7a8f0
The general theme is "caveat emptor".
With upscale products the consumer value doesn't lie just in the substance (say, nutrition value) but also in the customer's perception/satisfaction. They are often described as lifestyle products and aspirational products. One person's unnecessary luxury is the next's "treat" or even necessity.
There's room for everybody.