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I don't think an eInk reader with a frontlight and no touchscreen exists.
Onyx and Pocketbook (possibly some others), I think, offer models with frontlighting and page turn buttons though, so at least there's that. I don't know how good any 6-6.8'' eInk reader is for PDFs though (that is going to depend heavily on individual preference - e.g. what is acceptable speed for one may be intolerably slow for another).
For what it's worth, my personal experience with touchscreens is that fingerprint smudges are a considerably lesser problem on eInk screens than they are on LCD screens. I wouldn't go as far as to say they're invisible (I know some say they can't see fingerprints on an eInk screen at all) but they're definitely considerably less visible than I was afraid of.
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