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Are you reading a book you bought from the Kobo bookstore, or a sideloaded book from some other source? By default, sideloaded books use a different rendering engine on the Kobo -- one that does not display a page header. You can sideload your books through Calibre and have them load as "kepub.epub" files ("kepubs"), and they will display with the ACCESS engine that usually does show a page header.
(Or you can just use a file manager to change the name of the book from "title.epub" to "title.kepub.epub" -- that should do the trick, too.)
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