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The issues of cumbersome, slow, and no light (eink screens are frontlit, not backlit) have all been solved on modern Kobos. There are even some signs of the customer service looking up, which I hope will continue. You can now create collections in Calibre (see the sticky) and transfer them across into the device in bulk, which helps navigation. They remain small and light with excellent battery life. If you have an investment in Kobo books and prefer the features available with non-sideloaded books (like syncing bookmarks across devices), this might be your best bet.
As the others say, if you're prepared to strip DRM and convert (since you are happy to get around georestrictions I'm assuming you might be), which is fast and easy, you can buy any device and patronise any shop.
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