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I'm going to be contrarian. I'm not that far into it, but I love it. I find the prose mesmerizing and dizzying, the imagerie grounds me solidly in Jerusalem, and the sardonic take on people and their behaviors has me snickering, even as it frequently shocks or saddens.
I've still got about two-thirds to go, but I'm greatly enjoying the labyrinthine journey, so evocative of the twisting streets of Jerusalem. For me, this is one of those books where the prose in translation is so gorgeous that I wish I could experience it in the original.
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