Personaly I think I like my Filco with MX Brown the best for general board. On other switches MX black felt too strong, but I have to look at that once I get my next board with them, modified my last one MX Reds. MX Clears are somewhat too heavy for my preference. Buckling Spring that is old IBM is very nice.
There is very few ergonomic boards with MX switches.
For absolute most lasting legends:
On other hand keycaps are replaceable and you can get used sets of caps which have legends which are in different coloured plastic entirely. These are know as doubleshot, they are somewhat rare, but they are the best tech out there. For lesser lasting there is also dye sublimation printed caps.
I have no idea about this:
http://www.trulyergonomic.com/store/index.php atleast partly ergonomic keyboard.
Then if you are ready to put money and effort into it there is always the more weird stuff like Datahands... Along the lines of not cheap options are IBM M15, split boards, buckling springs, but not cheap...
Not that I'm a writer, but keyboard enthusiast.