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OK, thanks. You pointed me in the right direction. It turns out that you have to go to the bottom of the second page of the menu and track it down under styles->edit current style.
It also appeared that if I choose a font here, the regular font choice changes around a bit. I've been using Charis 22pt, but to get the same size after I've set Charis as part of the "regular paragraph" I have to go back to the main menu font selecter and choose 12pt. This gets me the same point size that I had before with 22pt.
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