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Originally Posted by scrapking
Since you've been researching this up the ying-yang, how do the Kobo and Amazon approaches differ from Nook's approach?
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Hard to say, the more I see the Kobo, the more it looks a bit more like the Nook's approach, just further along with that particular light guide design. I'd probably need to have one in hand to describe it better.
I've only used the Paperwhite and Nook personally at this point, and the Paperwhite's approach has a few pluses to the Nook, although the Nook ain't all that bad either. The Paperwhite feels less like a "light over a display" and more like a "white display". It's kinda hard to describe.
But the thing I do want to point out is that at this point, none of them are going to be perfect. But they are all good enough that if I were given any of the three for free, I would use them no problem. If it was my money, I'd be pickier, but I don't see a reason to ignore this generation really, unless you expect a completely even display (or at least on par with a tablet's backlight).
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Originally Posted by l_macd
Some interesting stuff there Kolenka, but regards the capacitive screen on the Paperwhite, it's been suggested that this is in effect a layer that is painted on, like a coat of nail varnish, so would that mean it's not a layer than needs bonded with the other layers? Sorry of that's a daft question, I'm clueless about the tech of these screens!
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You still need to run wiring in a grid for the touch sensor to work, and it needs to be precise. Unless you manufacture the sensors at the same time as the light guide or eInk panel, the wiring needs to be embedded into a film so it can be assembled correctly later (common). You could in theory embed the wiring in the bonding agent that you use between the guide and the eInk panel, but that comes across as pretty tricky when using the labor available at places like Foxconn. Either the touch layer comes in complete as a film that needs to be bonded, or it is included in the manufacturing of the light guide, which comes as additional cost though complexity of a custom part.
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Originally Posted by filmo
Your vision sort of does auto white balance making surrounding room light the norm. If your room lighting is matching old incandescent light 2700K color temperature producing a more warm orange light the daylight balanced glow light will look blue. If your reading in day light the glow light will look white.
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I'm not concerned about white balance per se. Some here might be, but white points closer to blue have other things that concern me.
Studies tend to show that the more blue lights tend to trick your brain into staying awake thinking there is still daylight, while warmer incandescent lights don't do this nearly as much. I have screwed my sleep cycles quite a bit for a couple years because of this little quirk before I started understanding what was going on. Granted, this is not exactly what I'd consider a well-understood phenomenon at this point.
But another stance for me is that the Nook's light was actually harsher on my eyes and made them tired more quickly, while the warmer light on the Paperwhite was easier to use in a completely dark room.
The exact color temperature doesn't bother me, but these other things are somewhat important, IMO. But in the end, you really just have to use whichever one you actually enjoy using.