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The lighter and thinner the font, the worst I think it is.
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Yep - I forgot to mention that aspect. It's one of the reasons that the original NT sans-serif font was unusable at small sizes.
The single-pixel-wide font used for page numbers is probably not improvable - I expect they chose it because it is not intrusive when reading.
I, too, am impressed by the responsiveness of the Kobo team - it's the reason I bought a second NT after returning the first one.