[desertblues]

As usual, excuse the typo's *

A new day;the 19th day of travel.
I'm up early. We'll be leaving this splendid hotel (good, but for the sketchy wifi). It is a building with large rooms, build around a courtyard. It has an magnificent enclosed Persian garden with running water all through bright blue tiled canals and terra-cotta pots with red flowers next to it; nice to stroll in.And it smells good, all those flowers. Beautiful, orange-red blooming pomegranate trees and some large Amazone Ara's (parrots,blue/yellow and a red one)quarreling,whispering and eating some nuts out of their claws.It is a fairy-tale.
The rooms are furnished with traditional furniture and oriental rugs. Porcelain lamps, with wite and blue geometrical patterns.A high vaulted ceiling, decorated by azur and dark blue tiles.

The bazar today: I bought a huge oriental rug,with zoroastrian motives,the four elements, for practically nothing.It has been made in Kuhgiluye. As it can't be shipped by the shop; they wrapped it up in a bag and we drag it along.How this thing is going on the plane:that is a problem for the (near) future.*

We are staying this night in a real caravanserai; the 400 year old Zein-Od-Din,build by Shah Abbas I. It was part of a network of 999 of such inns; to promote trade in this desert. This huge lightbrown fort in the desert is made to withstand an attack: no windows on the outside and a wall around the flat roof. *Some trees(not palms)grow next to it, besides a tiny stream;this place must have started out as an oasis.
It is very nicely decorated,with rugs,kelims, copperware, earthenware and amphora's. It's vaulted ceilings are constructed out of yellow brick. And nice toilets, with paper (=luxury)and not leaking, and hot showers....I'm good today. No internet at al though.

Walking through this desert(Dasht-e Kavir),I feel the crunch of salt and sand under my feet. It is reddish-grey, with rocks and,further away than on first sight, the mountains.*
The upper layer of sand is held together by evaporated salt. Very few movement to be seen; an occasional small grey lizard; incredible fast-running. Yesterday I saw some other desertanimals;big longlegged ants( long legs because of the hot soil)running, running....It was so funny to watch.
It is also an area where nomads used to walk through, but now often take their lorry. There are still a million if them in Iran, although the governement discourages their way of living.

We were allowed without a veil, and our sleeves rolled up in the caravanserai, but a few conservative Shiit women wore it anyway. Somehow we felt naked without and out of place. That veil gives a lot of freedom too. I can walk anywhere as a woman alone, and that is not usual for foreign women in the Oriental world.

Nice and quiet; sleeping in a caravanserai. We slept on a kind of futon. After a breakfast of thin bread, salty cheese and strong tea( diluted by hot water out of the samovar), we are on our way: the inevitable policeposts-mountains-plateau-mountains-fertile plateau where Shiraz is.It will be quite a long journey.

In the tiny villages we drove through, we saw many half build or ruined mud-houses.Apart from the big cities,and less building going on than in the North. Iranian people seem to have a hard time of making a living here. But everybody welcomes us with open arms; sometimes we get some chai. People like to practise their English:'hello, which country,bye'.

We passed Abarqu with its holy tree, in the middle of a pond; a 4000 year old Cypress.
And an ancient ice-house, build like an upside down ice-cream cone, with some tiny windows and a deep pit. Next to it are two long parallel walls, between which they collected ice in the winter. Al those huge chunks of ice went into the pit of the ice-house and there was enough ice for the summer.

And the last sight for today: hot, hot; 38 C and low humidity.
Pasargadae,which was begun under Cyrus the Great (546.BC).Several heaps of stones and tombs under the scorching sun. The tomb of Cyrus, which six stone tiers stand for the conquered civilisations.The remains of Cyrus Private Palace and the Audience Palace. Reallly impressive all; those huge blocks and pillars of stone. It is also called the ' Little Persepolis'.

And now:through the Zagros-mountains to Shiraz, where we are staying for three days. The plateau we're driving through is a fertile one.


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