[desertblues]

Yes! Wifi again; excuse the typo's

Beautiful weather it was yesterday; the veil is getting a bit warm, as are the clothes.An early start from Tabriz for a 14-hours drive to Takab.

At our right the Lake Orimiyek. This is a salted lake, like the Dead Sea, so I would float in it, if I would take a bath. That I will not, as one dive in the Dead Sea two years back was enough: eyes pricking like h..ll and every tiny cut burned clean out.
It is part of the Unesco Biosphere Reseve; only living thing in it is a primitive worm, Artimesia, which is greatly liked by migrating birds, such as flamenco's.They would need the minerals as well, of course.
In the middle of the lake is an island where Hulagu Khan, grandson of Genghis Khan is buried, with a ceremony where several virgins were sacrificed.

At our left the Sahandmountains once more; rocky surfaces with grass and the inevitable herds of longhaired smelly goats and sheep, herded by Kurds and tall golden dogs, that resemble that special breed from east-Turkey.
A much friendlier landscape then yesterday and more optimistic somehow, hopeful. There's a lot of building going on, the houses are more prosperous, better planned and the people more relaxed. Life is hard, but less than elsewhere near the border.
The farmland on the slopes are walled with loose rocks. There are lots of fruittrees, each with their own earthen wall to keep the water in; hazelnuts, almonds, walnuts and a curious dark flat brown mandarin-sized hard shell with a tiny nut in it. Those nuts are grinded, boiled and produce a very tasty dark translucent spread.I bought a jar, just out of curiosity.I tasted some of it of a large knife, dipped in it, from a friendly Kurd.
And another product of that region is honey and its honeycombs....lovely.Sometimes we have some combs for breakfast.

In Kardovan we stounded at the cone-shaped troglodyt houses and the ones build of rocks, held together by clay, with flat roofs. Time has no meaning there, it seems. I could have been transported into the middle ages. Goats scrambling through narrow steep streets, paved with rocks.Most of the women don't wear black veils and clothes, but much brighter colors. Fierce dark brown eyes;it were Azerbaijani, which make out 25% of the population of Iran.

On to Bonab, known for its atomic research and the derelict Mehrabad Mosque, with wooden pillars, from 1083. It is being restored.
Maraqeh has some fine tombtowers; we saw the Gonbad-e Sorkh.

Through the Baradar-shahmountains we reached Takab; after the long drive. I didn't even bother to eat as I was tired and fed up with salad, which was the only thing to be had.A very primitive hotel,but.....wifi!

Takab is near Takht-e Soleiman (Solomon's throne); nothing to do with King Solomon;just a tale from the 7th century by the Persian temple-guardians, to prevent the destruction by the Arabs, islams, which held the biblical prophets in high regard.This Unesco World Heritage site from the 3rd century, was the spiritual centre of the Zoroastrianism (first mono-theistic religion ever).

After a breakfast of fetacheese,flat bread,eggs and tea, I visited that ancient religious center the next day. Earth, wind, water and fire were venerated there. A water-crater forms the centre of the site and that poisonous water was channeled to a Water-Temple. Fire,through natural volcanic gasses was led to and lit at the Fire-Temple.Though in ruins; it is a beautiful place to behold and to experience in its sanctioness and history.Peaceful; nothing bad here.

We ate lunch somewhere, in the middle of nowhere; I manage to order me a Kukuh-sabsi= omelet with spinach and spicy herbs. Lovely.And tea, always tea.

In Qizil Belakh we were invited in a traditional farmers house, a mud-block home build from rocks, straw and mud/ clay. The women's room was protected against bad things by an amulet above the entrance. Nice oriental rugs on the floor from wall to wall, and the women were weaving another, tradtional rug with a beautiful pattern og red/blue/white flowers.Leaning against an outside wall was a heap of dried dung patties, for fuel.

On with the caravan; our next stop will be Sanandaj, the capital of Kordestan province, the Kurds.
Rain and sun today; not bad weather.

BTW: We discovered today that our Iranian driver, and most of them, are not able to read, to interprete roadmaps. That is a concept that seems, in some way, too abstract to comprehend. Never knew that.