All solved
You were right about the filesystem errors, errors, Kovid. What threw me was that it turned out only .metadata.calibre was corrupted, so that I could write to the card all day long as long as I never touched .metadata.calibre. But as soon as I tried to copy it from the command line, syslog threw a few hundred errors, and the fs was set r/o.
So I renamed .metadat.calibre, hoping Calibre would rebuilt it, but as soon as Calibre tried to touch the card it was back to r/o.
So I copied everything off, reformatted the card, and restored. I seem to be back in business, except that I can no longer see the reader's main memory (it's not even mounted in Linux), and Calibre sees the card as the reader's main memory.
Thanks for the help. I hope everything's fixed.
--Nathanael
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