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Old 10-19-2012, 04:38 PM   #31
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Sketches above (on the thread's prior page) are by QCad and the png files are exported at about 8x actual size.

The dxf file is attached here, compressed to keep MR site software happy.

Tomorrow, make an insert tab that matches the now-known inside of J14
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Last edited by knc1; 10-19-2012 at 04:45 PM.
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Old 10-20-2012, 10:09 AM   #32
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Top post updated with links to the internal details of J14
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Old 10-27-2012, 09:27 AM   #33
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First cut

As I mentioned in the top post of this thread, I wanted to do my K3-J14 connector in a different manner than that done in the original connector thread (link in top post).

The original connector thread used a subtractive process. Where the connector contacts where etched from a copper plated board using the "toner transfer" method.
Nothing at all "wrong" with that process, if you have or can get the materials.

This connector thread uses an additive process. Here the connector contacts are made of gold plated, spring wire laid into grooves in a plastic substrate.

Of course, one of the main questions here is, is this even possible with the materials and tools a person is likely to find around their home (or workshop or local store, or ...).

This work is on the small side of most "construction" projects.

The reader should refer to the dimensioned sketches of the internal dimension of J-14 in prior posts of this thread for the details.

The raw materials will be:
  • A RJ-14 telephone jack
  • A credit card
  • An adhesive

The telephone jack gets disassembled for its four, gold plated, spring wires with attached lead wires. We only need three, the fourth one is a "construction spare".

The credit card is "sacrificed" to provide the slip of plastic for the substrate, trimmed from one side of the credit card. If you cut up the credit card charging you the highest annual rate, you might even make a profit from building this connector tab.

Credit cards are made from a plastic stock that is 0.030 inches thick.
The wires from the telephone jack are 0.015 inches in diameter.
The total height of the connector slot is 0.046 inches.
Duh...

Plus, the little wires need to be held in position, so . . . .
Cut three parallel grooves in the credit card, 0.010 deep, fasten wires into grooves;
both problems solved with an over-all thickness of 0.035 inches.

So these images show the "First Cut" and test of the assembly process.

Now, the only tricky part is cutting the three parallel grooves, 0.010 inches deep, 0.060 inches apart.
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Last edited by knc1; 10-27-2012 at 09:34 AM.
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Old 10-27-2012, 09:30 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by knc1 View Post
As I mentioned in the top post of this thread, I wanted to do my K3-J14 connector in a different manner than that done in the original connector thread (link in top post).
...
Now, the only tricky part is cutting the three parallel grooves, 0.010 inches deep, 0.060 inches apart.
YAY!!!

And grats on your mondo post count
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Old 10-27-2012, 02:53 PM   #35
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Engraving stand

The grooves needed in the substrate are hardly more than deep scratches. And less than a 1/16 inch apart.
A real challenge for old eyes and shaky hands.

Ah, but mankind is known as a; "toolmaker" (among other things).
Make something to help.

Imagine a router table, with router and router bit -
Only scale it down for the job at hand -
Make it quick, an 8-month old project thread doesn't need anymore delays.

Instead of a router and router bit, plan on using a Dremel Tool with the smallest engraving bit on-hand at the local store.

Find chunk of wood (a 2x4 foot piece of 1/4 hardwood plywood), start cutting, gluing, finishing - -
And as shown in the before, after, and underside pics - -
A "router table" with a Dremel Tool accessory used as the underside mount.

Not easily seen in the "after" pic - a 1/8 inch hole in the table top where the engraving bit protrudes (0.010 of an inch).

Note: Credit cards are 1/32 inch ABS plastic sheet. ABS sheet is easy to work, you can groove yours, your way.
I just suspect I will be grooving more than one plastic tab.

Plus, I will probably use this "engraving table" for other projects.
If not, it will become a foot stool or lamp table.
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Old 10-27-2012, 08:48 PM   #36
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Nice home made solution there. I assume the Dremel would be optional for foot stool use.
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Old 10-27-2012, 08:55 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cavorite View Post
Nice home made solution there. I assume the Dremel would be optional for foot stool use.
Thanks.

I was thinking perhaps a cushion to cover the top.

But now that you have brought that idea to mind -
Maybe a buffer attachment for pedicures?
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Old 10-27-2012, 09:05 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cavorite View Post
Nice home made solution there. I assume the Dremel would be optional for foot stool use.
Quote:
Originally Posted by knc1 View Post
Thanks.

I was thinking perhaps a cushion to cover the top.

But now that you have brought that idea to mind -
Maybe a buffer attachment for pedicures?
"Power tool furniture" would seem to have suprisingly high alure for "the average man" our survey says. "Ride-on Couch Mowers" and the "Nail-Gun Lazy Boy" being the big sellers this Xmas.

sign me up!
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Old 10-27-2012, 09:28 PM   #39
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Next project, print my own chocolate candies:
http://www.3ders.org/3d-printing-basics.html

(Page down a bit to the chocolate video in section 3)
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Old 10-27-2012, 11:08 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by knc1 View Post
Next project, print my own chocolate candies:
http://www.3ders.org/3d-printing-basics.html

(Page down a bit to the chocolate video in section 3)
Chocolate printers are fine, if you are into that sort of confection.

I always thought that the CandyFab sintered sugar printer was rather cool:


Now what we REALLY need is a BACON printer!

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Old 10-28-2012, 10:37 AM   #41
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A little closer to the topic

Although the serial port connection to the K3 does not require soldering (to the K3), other models do require soldering.

Readers might find this device useful:
http://www.dansworkshop.com/2008/03/smt-hot-air-pencil/

For a high current, low voltage, power source Dan uses the transformer from a micro-wave oven, with the high voltage winding cut away and a new, high current, low voltage, winding added.
Lots of information on the 'net about doing that for "DIY welders".
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Old 10-28-2012, 07:26 PM   #42
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Nice project, but a reminder to be very careful with microwave oven transformers (as the author notes on his hot-wire cutter page). Unmodified, they are seriously lethal devices and should be handled with due care and caution.
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Old 10-29-2012, 10:29 AM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cavorite View Post
Nice project, but a reminder to be very careful with microwave oven transformers (as the author notes on his hot-wire cutter page). Unmodified, they are seriously lethal devices and should be handled with due care and caution.
Those large, red font, printed stickers inside the microwave that say: "Danger High Voltage" should be a big hint about being careful.

Despite that, posts on the 'net can be found about people being electrocuted by those high voltage transformers.
Evidently they either couldn't read, or thought that warning label did not apply to them.

The key thing to remember, is that high voltage secondary is going to be cut away and replaced by the DIY person.
WITHOUT ANY "lets just plug it in to see if it still works" adventures.

One of the things I have noticed in the on-net posts about re-winding the secondary of the transformer for low voltage, high current output: Nobody is paying any attention to "packing density" of the hand wound coil.
Using common wire with its large area (relative to the copper area) taken up by the heavy (and low temperature) insulation.

A better way - make a "tape wound" secondary.
Bare metal copper strip, high temperature insulating tape.
With tape wider than the copper strip.

"Wire" does not have to be round, it can be rectangular in cross-section.
Its current handling (or rating) is determined by its cross-section area.
For a "good" packing density, you want a much thicker copper "tape" than insulating "tape".
But for a high current winding, that is what you need to use anyway (a thick copper tape, so the cross-section area is large enough for your purpose).

An example of insulating tape to use:
https://www.protoparadigm.com/products/polyimide-tape/

The bare copper "tape" can be found at any metal supplier that sells slit sheets, such as:
http://allfoils.thomasnet.com/item/c...&assetid=g1006

And, if you only need fewer turns than will fit in the core opening when "tape wound" - keep in mind you can wind multiple secondaries in that space that will be used in parallel.

Lots of ways to get a re-wound transformer, specifically suited to your needs, when doing a "tape wound" coil.

Last edited by knc1; 10-29-2012 at 10:31 AM.
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Old 10-29-2012, 02:11 PM   #44
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winding my own transformer is one of the few projects I did as a kid. the 2000 in 1 electronics kit only came with a tiny one.

No good for electrocuting yourself at all. However, the ground strap on an old TV?
Now you're talking.
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Old 10-29-2012, 02:52 PM   #45
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No good for electrocuting yourself at all. However, the ground strap on an old TV?
Now you're talking.
Lots of uses for a cheap, DIY, high current, low voltage transformer.
Laser diodes ;
Resistive heaters ;
Stepper motors ;
Really, really, high powered audio amplifiers ;
All of those things (can) require a lot of iron in the linear power supply transformer.
Since microwave ovens are in the 600..1000 watt range, they have that "lot of iron".

Hmm...
Did I just describe a DIY CNC machine?
I think I will start with my junk box of old printers and CD/DVD drives and see what happens locked into the same room with them.

Last edited by knc1; 10-29-2012 at 02:56 PM.
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